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The Art of Form: Decoding Fashion's Obsession With Sculpted Body Plates

Fluid, lustrous and effortlessly avant-garde.
Published: March 28, 2024
The Art of Form: Decoding Fashion's Obsession with Sculpted Body Plates
Photo: Courtesy of KWK by Kay Kwok

First popularised on the runways of ’90s powerhouses Thierry Mugler, Alexander McQueen and Paco Rabanne, the body plate has been continuously reinvented—from androgynous minimalism to space‑age chic. Fast forward to today, and we see the sculpted armour making a comeback in the work of contemporary provocateurs such as Kay Kwok, Mark Gong and Grace Ling.

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KWK By Kay Kwok

The Art of Form: Decoding Fashion's Obsession with Sculpted Body Plates
Photo: Courtesy of KWK by Kay Kwok

Known for his futuristic creations, the Hong Kong‑based Chinese designer, whose label KWK by Kay Kwok holds the distinction of being the first Hong Kong brand to work with Beyonce, stretches the boundaries of convention with his distinctive 3D body sculptures. Akin to something out of a sci‑fi movie, these metallic structures encircle the body in a fluid motion, with some parts functioning as a bandeau top or a mini skirt. Dial it up a notch and what you get is Kwok’s most cyberpunk creation yet: A metallic dragon with intricate scales that wraps around the entire body, strategically concealing the chest and naughty bits.

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Mark Gong

The Art of Form: Decoding Fashion's Obsession with Sculpted Body Plates
Photo: Courtesy of Mark Gong

Designing for the woman who dares to differ, the Shanghai‑based Gong turns out otherworldly creations for his eponymous brand. From full‑metal bandeau tops with oversized bows to dramatic, seemingly windswept metal scarves, his latest looks from his spring/summer 2024 collection, inspired by the successful and ambitious Samantha Jones from Sex and the City, convey independence imbued with a touch of femininity.

Grace Ling

The Art of Form: Decoding Fashion's Obsession with Sculpted Body Plates
Photo: Courtesy of Grace Ling

Eclectic creations that meld high fashion with experimental street style are par for the course at the namesake label of this Singapore‑born, New York‑based designer. Think a backless cutout dress composed of a metal breastplate and a slinky floor‑length black skirt; a gown with a plunging front and surrealist‑inspired straps in the form of hands; and a cage‑like girdle that recalls the iconic “Spine corset” from Alexander McQueen’s spring/summer 1998 collection.

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