Anyone who’s ever laid eyes on a Birkin knows that Hermès is in the business of making things last. Above all, Hermès is one of the few storied brands on the semi-annual Paris Fashion Week calendar which knows its place and never needs to deviate far from it, so it’s not difficult to imagine these new offerings from fall/winter 2024 standing up to the rest of the time-tested classics in the house’s archives.
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The silhouettes of this collection were inspired by the brand’s equestrian roots on one hand, and reimagined as modern motorbiker staples on the other. The show setting—a slick black runway reminiscent of city streets at night in the rain (spoiler alert: it did start raining)—seemed apt for Creative Director Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski’s Midnight Cowboy-esque ensembles. A leather coat with horsehair accents, cowboy boots worn with leather trousers, both cropped and flared, and a strong showing of equestrian jackets make the collection, among others. A sneaky highlight, however, would be the ribbed leather leggings and tops used in several of the looks. Luxury activewear, but make it leather.
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There was one thing notably absent here, which would be the sheer fabric sweeping many of the runways for several seasons running. What was sexiest about Hermès this season was that it didn’t lean on nakedness to make things feel sensual. Tight leather pants, slinky pencil skirts and the occasional thigh-high leg slit were enough to keep things mysterious, interesting and mildly titillating, making for a collection which was both provocative and still safe, something for a motomami and the more-conservative consumers in the audience.
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The subtle craftsmanship which Hermès is best known for took the form of studded dresses and sleek yet sturdy leather boots in this collection, which you know will stand the test of time given the brand’s indisputable reputation as the world’s most luxurious leather goods maker. Hermès fall/winter 2024 stands out this season not for any one particular hit or viral statement piece, but because it reinvents old classics with ease, showing that things that last can still feel fresh and new. As the old adage goes: If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.