Rolex has unveiled a new colourway for its Oyster Perpetual Datejust 31 watch. Presented in 18 ct yellow gold with a red ombré dial adorned with ten diamond-set hour markers, the new reference combines fiery passion with classic elegance, taking the model in a bold new direction.
Initially introduced by Rolex in the 1980s, the ombré design is defined by its distinctive concentric gradient, where the coloured centre gradually darkens into a deep black at the dial edge. At Rolex, ombré dials are created via the process of PVD (Physical Vapour Deposition). The technique affords extremely fine control, but the production process remains a challenging one that’s equal parts art and engineering, as it demands finesse and precision for the perfect transition from colour to darkness. Unsurprisingly, this delicate operation is overseen by a specialist at the Rolex Manufacture.
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Upon its reintroduction in 2019, the ombré design was used in the Oyster Perpetual Day-Date exclusively. Its use has since been extended to the Datejust, with the new reference marking the first time red has been given the ombré treatment. Here, the combination of colours and textures is reminiscent of dusk, as the final rays of the setting sun give way to the blackness of the impending night.
BRILLIANCE CRAFTED
The deep black rim that marks the dial’s edge is accentuated by 10 diamond-set hour markers that sparkle in stark contrast against it. This play with light extends to the bezel, where 46 brilliant-cut diamonds have been set. They frame the dial perfectly, while adding a touch of luxury that complements the watch’s 18 ct yellow gold case and bracelet.
Ironically, the aesthetic perfection of Rolex’s gem-setting belies the work involved. From choosing only the best stones with the right visual qualities to matching them to each other, every step of the process demands exacting standards. And it is Rolex’s mastery over these details—down to minutiae such as the precise alignment of the height of the gems—that makes its watches such enchanting visual delights.
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A TIMELESS CLASSIC
The aesthetic highlights of the new Datejust 31 are underpinned by the model itself. A long staple in Rolex’s lineup, the Oyster Perpetual Datejust dates back to 1945, when it debuted as the world’s first self-winding waterproof chronometer wristwatch with a date display window at 3 o’clock on the dial.
The launch reference of the Datejust was a technical powerhouse, as it included all the major innovations that Rolex had developed up to that point. While the model has grown and evolved over the decades, the practice continues today. Every contemporary Datejust thus represents the culmination of all Rolex’s technical advancements, while speaking the same design language that makes it such an icon. The timepiece here is naturally a familiar classic. Like the other models in the Datejust family, it is guaranteed waterproof to 100 metres, thanks to features including its solid case middle, hermetically screwed down case back and Twinlock winding crown. The crystal, which has the characteristic Cyclops lens at 3 o’clock, is yet another instantly recognisable detail.
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The aesthetic codes that define the new version of the Datejust 31 are further enhanced by the choice of material for both the case and bracelet. As a testament to the extent of vertical integration in the Rolex Manufacture, the precious metal itself is cast by the brand’s own foundry. It is then meticulously inspected in an in-house laboratory before being worked into various components accordingly. Such a level of integration doesn’t just enable technical mastery over the production process, but also ensures the highest level of quality control, right down to the raw materials themselves.
Aside from the use of gold, the luxurious slant of the new Datejust 31 extends to its President bracelet. Originally created for the Oyster Perpetual Day-Date in 1956, this three-piece link bracelet remains Rolex’s dressiest piece today and is only crafted in either 18 ct gold or 950 platinum. Unsurprisingly, it remains available only for the Day-Date, as well as the precious metal variants of the Datejust. The President bracelet is fitted with a concealed folding Crownclasp that blends seamlessly with the bracelet. It features Rolex’s patented ceramic inserts inside its links for greater flexibility and longevity.
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MECHANICAL EXCELLENCE
The new Datejust 31 is powered by Rolex’s in-house mechanical movement, calibre 2236. Equipped in the Datejust since 2018, it sports several Rolex innovations, including the silicon Syloxi hairspring, which features a patented geometry that ensures the calibre’s regularity in any position. This vital component, coupled with the paramagnetic nickel-phosphorus escape wheel and the brand’s proprietary Paraflex shock absorbers, helps contribute to the calibre’s robustness and timekeeping accuracy. A longish 55-hour power reserve and a self-winding system via a Perpetual rotor complete the package for the perfect blend of performance and reliability.
SUPERLATIVE STANDARDS
Like all Rolex timepieces, the new Datejust 31 is a certified Superlative Chronometer. The standard guarantees that every watch leaving the Rolex Manufacture has passed a battery of tests that assess criteria including precision, waterproofing, power reserve and self-winding performance. These evaluations, conducted in Rolex’s own laboratories, are performed on the fully assembled timepieces after their individual movements have already been certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC).
Beyond just being a more holistic assessment of a complete timepiece, the Superlative Chronometer standard is also far more stringent. Case in point: A certified Superlative Chronometer has a precision of +2/–2 seconds per day, well beyond the –4/+6 seconds per day deviation accepted by COSC. The Superlative Chronometer status is symbolised by the green seal that comes with every Rolex watch and is coupled with an international five-year guarantee.