The greatest paradox remaining in fashion today seems to be that it is both inclusive and exclusive. In theory, fashion is intended to make people feel free and liberated, to wear what they want to wear and be who they want to be—but in practice, this formula doesn’t always seem feasible.
Dior contemplates that long-held contradiction with simplicity and ease this season, presenting a fall/winter 2024 ready-to-wear collection that actually looks ready to wear. Unfussy, uncomplicated, and perhaps best of all, unpretentious, immaculately-tailored separates and a few spare evening wear looks are presented with few frills here and there, looking cool and chic nonetheless. Surely, Maria Grazia Chiuri is well aware her luxury items will still go for a hefty price tag. But even so, it’s telling that she doesn’t want this season’s looks to look too terribly out of place on the high street.
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Dior rarely has to pretend to be something it’s not. Wearing Dior gives off a certain sort of nonchalance which affords an air of privilege in itself. Which is why it’s refreshing to see the house return to its down-to-earth era—a tightly-curated collection of the brand’s iconic silhouettes reimagined for the 21st century. Revisiting the Miss Dior line first launched in the 1960s to attract younger customers, Chiuri imbues this new collection with a little bit of punk (Miss Dior graffiti print), little hints of spice (shift dresses with fringe hems barely concealing the briefs underneath) and a sprinkle of sparkle (shiny details like beautiful beadwork).
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Spanning the spectrum from girlhood to womanhood, the collection also referenced the swinging sixties in its freedom of range, with clothes made for both office and special occasions, all with casual, comfortable chic in mind. Chiuri will never miss an opportunity to celebrate girl power in her shows—this one unfolded against the backdrop of armoured warriors crafted by Mumbai-based artist Shakuntala Kulkarni—but all in all, the collection wasn’t trying too hard to deliver any messages, begging us to take the hint, instead. Fashion, and the freedom to feel comfortable in it, will always be a privilege, giving you the privilege to go wherever you may want, wearing whatever you may please.