A new-gen tweed skirt suit; a modern ballgown; a quilted flap bag so chic as to render everything near its vicinity redundant. These are what you might have pinned as 'first look-worthy' when it comes to Chanel. But for the brand's pre-fall catwalk show—the Métiers d’Art—which saw models striding down a disused subway platform in the bowels of Manhattan, with considerably more vigour than your average commuter in New York City, its opening outfit was something lo-fi, relaxed, dare we say it, dressed down: A half-zip jumper with a popped collar and pair of light-wash jeans.
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Chanel being Chanel, however, the jeans weren't jeans at all. Matthieu Blazy delivered a sleight of hand that was similar to his days as creative director of Bottega Veneta, crafting a denim-look leather that would have fooled the most discerning of eyes. Despite the fact it wasn't cotton, it still put jeans (faux as they might be) at the front of fashion editors' minds—and got us thinking about the fate of true blues ahead of spring/summer 2026.
These 'jeans' were mid-rise, loose-ish on the leg and straight in silhouette, a cut that's a classic for a reason and one that was also spotted on the catwalk at Dolce & Gabbana, another collection that was lauded back in September, and will no doubt prove influential as we enter 2026. But as well as polish, there was grunge. Coach backed the distressed jean, with bleached denim that was ripped at the edges. Celine, meanwhile, went for the skinny, a controversial shape that dominated most of our denim-drobes circa 2008.
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Refined Baggy
Gen Z's favourite silhouette—big and baggy—looks set to mature this spring, with refined takes at labels where the jeans were paired with shirts. Seek out styles that pair a roomy leg with an indigo shade or slight barrel cut, and wear over almond-toed ankle boots instead of sneakers.
Authentic denim contemporary loose trousers with monili, $2,100, Brunello Cucinelli.
Dark blue denim trousers, $1,800, Fendi.
Washed Cocoon jeans, Givenchy.
Skinny
"Oh my" were the precise words that ran through my head at the sight of these skinnies, but they're Celine, which means they're bound to gain traction as the season progresses. I respect the fact that, far from trying to deescalate their proportions, their whippet-thin silhouette has actually been accentuated with a blazer that's sharp-shouldered. If you've still got a pair that you saved from their heyday, why not experiment to see if they're due a second wind in your wardrobe?
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Logo-plaque jeans, $1,200, Dolce & Gabbana at Farfetch.
Skinny high jeans, $39.90, H&M.
Skinny-cut leg jeans, $352, Emporio Armani at Farfetch.
Distressed
Grungy denim also got its flowers for SS26. Make sure it reads 'grown-up' by teaming with classics—your leather funnel-necked bombers, your cashmere sweaters—and look forward to a time when you can wear them with a simple vest top.
Repaired buckle-back ryleigh jean, $829, Ralph Lauren.
Ripped jeans, $1,618, Balenciaga at Farfetch.
Ripped jeans, $905, MM6 Maison Margiela at Farfetch.
Straight
Straight in the leg with the slightest of flares—so slight it's almost invisible to the naked eye. The break over the shoe is important with this particular trend, whether you decide you want it to pool over your trainer or hang over an ankle boot.
Midnight blue denim jeans, Longchamp.
Sade jeans, Loro Piana
Logo-patch straight jeans, $1,643, Gucci at Farfetch.
This article was first seen on ELLE UK.