No one knows Bleu De Chanel better than Olivier Polge. And while one may assume it is because he is Chanel's Master Perfumer, his history with the fragrance collection goes back to his father, Jacques Polge, who created the original scent during his tenure. Now in his father's shoes, he hold the keys to the scent made with the most enigmatic man in mind. "Bleu De Chanel is no ordinary blue, nor is it the refreshing blue of a cloudless sky. It is intense, the final shade of blue before blue turns black. It is a blue that evokes depth and density," Oliver describes the scent.
Having crafted the 2018 parfum version, he knows the intense, aromatic woody fragrance inside and out. With Bleu De Chanel L'Exclusif, his focus was on reinterpreting the themes of its predecessors. “With L'Exclusif, the idea was to add a new chapter to the fragrance’s story. We began with the existing formula, then, like turning a kaleidoscope, shifted the key components to reveal new facets, intensifying select notes until entirely new harmonies emerged,” he explains.
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While cedar has long been a cornerstone of the Bleu De Chanel collection, L'Exclusif introduces a new focal point. To heighten the fragrance’s intensity, Olivier selected a botanical sandalwood, Santalum austrocalendonicum to be exact, extracted using a technique unique to the House. Combined with the leathery, resinous facets of Cistus labdanum (Gum Rockrose), it forms a harmonious olfactory blend centred on lavender and enriched with woody, ambery-aromatic undertones. The result is a powerful sillage: Classically masculine yet versatile enough to transcend occasions and even gender, as many on our team can attest.
“The goal was to go beyond perfume. We sought tones that would convey our vision of a masculine extrait by reinterpreting the qualities of feminine extraits—preciousness and intensity—while layering in masculinity and depth,” Olivier explains. “These notes in L'Exclusif offer a deep and mysterious expression of masculinity, revealing the fragrance’s intricate complexity.”
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Its complexity lies not only in the individual notes but in how they diffuse together, creating a trail that remains balanced and airy. "That is the great challenge of my craft: To anticipate points of diffusion and give strength without weighing the fragrance down. In this case, it was about letting the power rise from the base while maintaining the fragrance’s lightness,” Olivier explains. All of this is encased in a sleek blue bottle designed by Sylvie Legastelois, Director of Packaging Creation and Graphic Identity at Chanel Parfums et Beauté.
When collaborating, Olivier and Sylvie approached L'Exclusif with the same meticulous attention they give to Chanel’s women’s fragrances. “Sylvie and I have an ongoing exchange that feeds us both creatively, ensuring harmony between a fragrance and its bottle,” he says. “I find the shape of this bottle to be spot on, and Sylvie has perfectly captured the strength and intensity of this new fragrance—even in the bottle’s very form.”
For a fragrance as enigmatic as this, the campaign needed to embody its strength and intensity. Starring actor and Bleu de Chanel ambassador Timothée Chalamet, the visuals capture a sleek, sophisticated portrait of the star, while the campaign film offers a behind-the-scenes glimpse of him in conversation with Olivier about the ethos of the scent.
As more wearers gravitate toward musky, woody, and oud-driven fragrances over fresh, clean scents, Bleu De Chanel L'Exclusif signals the future. “In a different era, discretion was prized in men’s fragrances. Today, that quality is less sought after; fragrance has become more emotional, more engaging. That is why Bleu De Chanel L'Exclusif found its place so naturally. It is a new identity that completes the complex mosaic of Bleu De Chanel,” Olivier reflects.
Bleu De Chanel L'Exclusif, $377 for 100ml, CHANEL.
*This interview has been edited and condensed for clarity.