The fall/winter 2025 Chanel collection was a delightful exercise in reiterating House codes, and finding new ways to play with them. With Matthieu Blazy’s highly anticipated debut only being unveiled later this week, the collection currently in stores now was still the remit of the House’s creative studio team.
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Their task was to craft a collection that will satisfy both clients and critics—one cohesive enough to move the brand story forward, but not too far that it’ll be jarring when the Blazy era starts. On those counts, they succeeded.
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They did it by focusing on Coco Chanel’s most enduring signatures—the ribbon, the pearl, the camellia—and making those signatures fresh again by playing with proportions, placements and illusions. The pearls, for example, were blown-up to the size of golf balls, or turned into heels. Tweed suits were layered under sheer tulle in a play on lightness and structure. Tailoring sprouted ruff collars while knits had clusters of camellias around the neck.
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There were bows galore—trompe l’oeil bows, cut-out bows; some were printed, and others embroidered. Things were often not quite what they seemed—jeans were made of chiffon, and silk was made to look like tweed. Even familiar looks got recontextualised, like the new three-piece suit composed of a boxy vest, a miniskirt and roomy trousers; or tweed jackets turned into floor-grazing evening dresses.
Model SIME/Mannequin
Make-up Artist & Hairstylist WEE MING using Chanel Beauty
Photographer’s Assistant EDDIE TEO
Stylist’s Assistant PRIYANKA PATEL