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Chanel’s Olivier Polge On Reinventing Classic Fragrances And Finding Your Signature Scent

He tells us how he marries heritage with modernity in every bottle.
Published: January 15, 2025
Chanel’s Olivier Polge On Reinventing Classic Fragrances And Finding Your Signature Scent
Olivier Polge. Photo: Courtesy of Chanel

For over a century, Chanel has been synonymous with elegance, style, and innovation. At the heart of its fragrance legacy is Olivier Polge, Chanel’s in-house perfumer since 2013. Born into a family of perfumers, Polge inherited his father Jacques Polge’s role, continuing a tradition steeped in expertise and artistry. Yet, his creations—like the timeless N°5 L’Eau, Bleu de Chanel, Gabrielle Chanel L’eau, and Comète—are anything but mere reproductions. Instead, they blend heritage with a fresh modernity, mirroring Gabrielle Chanel’s revolutionary vision. On his first visit to Southeast Asia, Polge opened up about his craft and tips to finding the perfect scent.

Related article: Chanel Unveils A Limited Edition N°5 L’EAU With A Whole New Look

What led you to pursue perfumery?

Growing up, I wanted to do anything but follow in my father’s footsteps. I studied art history, thinking I wanted to be an art curator. It wasn’t until I was 20, during a summer internship in his lab, that I discovered my love for this craft. My father probably played a role in shaping my professional sensibilities. Over time, I went deeper into understanding his tastes, particularly his love for patchouli and ambery fragrances.

Related article: Exclusive: Margot Robbie Is Ready To See You In N°5

Is there a scent that never fails to lift your spirits?

I love the smell of coffee in the morning. In France, the aroma of fresh bread often accompanies it, filling the house with warmth. It’s a simple pleasure that always puts me in a good mood. If you’re talking about Chanel fragrances, I’m very drawn to N°19, it’s very warm and comforting.

Chanel’s Olivier Polge On Reinventing Classic Fragrances And Finding Your Signature Scent

What raw ingredients do you find most transformative in your creations?

I’m fascinated by iris. It’s not an outspoken ingredient but adds richness and depth, especially when paired with woody notes like cedar or sandalwood. Another example is heliotrope, which I used in Comète for its light, powdery quality. It’s delicate yet distinctive, adding a unique texture to the fragrance.

Related article: Exclusive: Guerlain’s Master Perfumer Thierry Wasser On The Art Of Emotional Perfumery

Chanel’s Olivier Polge On Reinventing Classic Fragrances And Finding Your Signature Scent
Comète EDP - Les Exclusifs De Chanel, $375 for 75ml, CHANEL.

Tell us about Comète, Chanel’s newest Les Exclusifs fragrance.

Comète is inspired by the comet necklace Gabrielle Chanel designed in 1932 for her diamond collection. To me, it represents stardust—luminous and powdery, yet fresh. I wanted to capture that balance without resorting to typical vanilla notes. Instead, I used cherry blossom accord, which evolves into a warmer base with iris roots. The result is a nuanced fragrance, both radiant and elegant.

Chanel’s Olivier Polge On Reinventing Classic Fragrances And Finding Your Signature Scent
N°5 L’eau (Limited Edition), CHANEL.

How do you approach reinventing a classic like Chanel N°5 for a modern audience?

For N°5 L’Eau, I revisited the original formula, focusing on its fresher, more vibrant elements. The iconic notes of jasmine, ylang-ylang, and rose remain, but I paired them with cedarwood for a modern twist. It’s like taking the quintessential Chanel silhouette and dressing it in lighter, more fluid fabrics. The result is a scent that feels both timeless and current, appealing to a new generation.

If you could travel back in time to meet Gabrielle Chanel, what would you say to her?

I would tell her how impressed I am by her vision. Coming from fashion, she revolutionised perfumery by treating it as a form of design—just like creating a dress. She was ahead of her time, bringing an unparalleled sense of creativity to the industry.

Many people love fragrances but find them intimidating. How do you recommend they discover their perfect scent?

There’s no right answer to choosing a fragrance. Be bold—try something unexpected that doesn’t match your usual preferences. Sometimes the best scents are the ones that surprise you. Perfume is like fashion; it’s not about what’s “correct” but what makes you feel confident and expressive.

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