Like the free-spirited cowboys from which the aesthetic originated, country style—that look so synonymous with the American West—gallops to its own beat. Now, with pop culture once again fascinated by the Western front, fashion is following suit, and the movement shows no signs of slowing down.
Since the middle of last year, we’ve seen sparks of Cowboy Core emerging. In the world of cinema, you had the protagonist (played by Margot Robbie) of Barbie fearlessly exploring uncharted territory in her pink Cowgirl ensemble, which went on to become one of the most talked-about outfits in film. Western epic Killers of the Flower Moon also made waves for its compelling representation of indigenous culture.
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Simultaneously, pop music was going through its own country era with the debut of Beyoncé’s record-breaking Cowboy Carter album and the highly anticipated arrival of Lana Del Rey’s country album, Lasso. Although this resurgence of Americana across pop culture may feel sudden, Western aesthetics have never truly gone out of style. In fashion, they often remain on the periphery, sometimes remixed with other subcultures like boho and indie sleaze.
While there are plenty of Western-adjacent brands such as Ralph Lauren and Ulla Johnson, other luxury labels are increasingly putting their own spin on this rustic aesthetic. At the Louis Vuitton fall/winter 2024 menswear show, creative director Pharrell Williams redefined Western workwear by spotlighting the influence of the Black experience and aesthetic in the origins of this emblematic look. “I feel like when you see cowboys portrayed, you see only a few versions. You never really get to see what some of the original cowboys really look like. They look like us, they look like me, they look Black, they look Native American,” said Williams in an interview with GQ. Similar to how Beyoncé tapped into her Southern heritage and became the first Black woman to top the country album charts with Cowboy Carter, this theme of cultural reclamation and celebrating one’s roots has become a poignant source of inspiration for designers alike.
On the womenswear front, Chloé’s fall/winter 2024 show brought back bohemian romanticism (which is rooted in the free-flowing layers of pioneer dressing) with a vengeance. The sheer, dramatically ruffled dresses and wedge clogs channelled carefree femininity, while the collection’s fringed leather pants and floor-length leather parkas injected a rebellious spirit synonymous with Western style.
Then you also have storied French brands like Roger Vivier and Balmain tossing their cowboy hats into the ring. In an unexpected departure from its classic Parisian style, Roger Vivier’s latest collection featured countrified iterations of iconic pieces such as its waistcoat and the Viv’ Choc mini bags—both crafted in suede and finely decorated with studs and flowing fringes. Balmain’s recently released cowboy boots are both a nod to Americana and its own heritage with its pointed toe, sleek facade, and leather pull tabs with gold-metal PB logos on the sides. After all, if the Wild West can’t be tamed, you’ll just have to put your own twist on it and make it your own.