The pre-fall 2024 season is defined by a return to really dressing up, be it in the form of dapper suits or slinky, sensuous dresses. Flowers, froth and a flashback to the ’80s lend a lighter counterpoint.
THE GENTLEWOMAN
The sartorial approach this season is more than just throwing on a blazer or a pair of slacks, it’s about going the whole nine yards—think three-piece suits with vests or overcoats; and finishing touches like ties and cravats. Victoria Beckham—formerly of the skin-tight bandage dresses—is now more likely to be spotted in a suit. Her collections have reflected that evolution. For pre-fall 2024, she presented ’70s-cut suits in shades of camel, powder blue and burgundy, worn with high-collared shirts and ribbed-knit vests. Peter Do has revived the Helmut Lang label with his signature blend of grown-up sophistication and downtown-girl cool, exemplified here in a sharp yet slouchy white suit. And at The Row, the Olsens fashioned a superb new take on the three-piece in charcoal, black and white—worn with utter nonchalance, and bedroom slippers.
TALKING BODY
Have we reached peak naked-dress? While the look is admittedly great for engineering viral red-carpet moments, it is perhaps not so practical in an IRL context. This season, the figure-flaunting look evolves—and gets a whole lot more sophisticated—thanks to designers who opted for a quiet simmer rather than a loud sizzle. The clingy jersey numbers at Bottega Veneta, Victoria Beckham and Helmut Lang accentuate the female form without being vulgar. Versace and Rabanne turned chainmail into something with a liquid-like quality. The fluidly draped dresses at Givenchy and David Koma leave less to the imagination but their wearers would still end up more dressed than not. At Mugler and Sportmax, skin was indeed bared but through the clever use of cut-outs and crystal mesh—with nary a nipple in sight.
MIDNIGHT GARDEN
To paraphrase Miranda Priestly of The Devil wears Prada, bright, beautiful blooms can sometimes be something of a cliché. For a more interesting take on the theme, look to designers who are doing moody florals this season. In rich hues set against inky backgrounds, these flowers had a bit more bite to them. Standouts include the intricately embroidered coats at Erdem and Chanel, and a black column at Christopher John Rogers splashed with an abstract single stalk.
FLOUNCING THE RULES
Marking a natural evolution of the coquette-core look, designers are now ramping up the drama when it comes to all things pretty and girlish. They are doing this by sending out voluminous, frothy pieces that bring to mind spun-sugar confections—made all the more delicious when rendered in sweet, sorbet hues. Alaïa and Balenciaga both had giant coats that fluttered and trembled, while Valentino and Carolina Herrera showed frilly gowns fit for a princess.
A CASUAL AFFAIR
Athleisure is not quite dead—after all, it’s hard to give up the ease of comfort-based dressing—but it has taken a more fashion-forward turn this season. Demna sent up the stereotype of the Y2K-era LA starlet with Juicy Couture-ish pink tracksuits—trousers riding so low that thongs were exposed—complete with matching Uggs and Balenciaga-branded coffee cups. The pink tracksuit was also present at Off-White, but with lacy edges and faux-fur trim; while at Blumarine, the gray hoodie was given a makeover via a dramatic, trailing scarf.
PARTY LIKE IT’S 1989
In line with the dressier mood of the season, fashion seems to be leaving behind Noughties skimpiness and ’90s minimalism for the era of big shoulders, big jewels and even bigger hair. Both Alessandra Rich and Isabel Marant showed jewel-toned party dresses with plenty of ruching. Black leather, too, was a constant: It was puff-sleeved and glossed up at Chanel; laser-cut at Area; and dripping with a biker-chick attitude at Khaite.