Maria Grazia Chiuri’s destination shows for Dior have become known not just for their lavish settings, but also for spotlighting each locale’s heritage in fashion, textiles and craftsmanship. For Cruise 2025, she headed to Scotland, where Monsieur Dior himself once showed a collection in 1955. In the grand manicured gardens of Drummond Castle, Chiuri presented one of her most visually exciting collections yet, where history and modernity came together in a fascinating clash.
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The historical figure at the heart of the collection was Mary, Queen of Scots. The regal splendour of her court dress informed the puff sleeves, corseted waists, billowing skirts and pearl collars that formed the core of the collection. It could have all come off as fancy-dress costume, but Chiuri found new ways to recontextualise these elements from fashion history into a comprehensive wardrobe for the modern woman. Corsetry was applied onto shirting and outerwear; bustiers worn with outdoorsy anoraks and waders; and crinoline shapes cut into miniskirt lengths. Meanwhile, casual staples got the elevated treatment: Bomber jackets took on airy, poufy shapes; t-shirts and sweatshirts came studded with little pearls, a chore jacket was thrown very nonchalantly over an intricately embroidered mesh dress.
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Of course, one could not talk about Scotland without talking about tartan, which featured prominently in the collection in shades of purple, red, olive and yellow. And one could hardly talk about tartan without thinking of the punks, who have adopted and subverted the classic chequered pattern since Vivienne Westwood first set up shop in the Seventies. The influence of punk culture can be seen in the sprinkling of studs, grommets, eyelets, chains and harness straps throughout the collection. It’s that juxtaposition of the hard-edged with the romantic that gave the collection its sharp modernity. The collision of prim and punk came together most succinctly in the pair of leather dresses with lace collars and leg-of-mutton sleeves, their hemlines cut high, and paired with biker boots over argyle socks.
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Chiuri might not be a punk per see, but one thing they do have in common is a love for slogans. Here, she reclaimed the terms often used to put down a woman who dares to speak up—words like emotional, hysterical, bossy, difficult and nag were splashed front-and-centre on feminine pieces in hourglass shapes. Chiuri also used her Cruise show to dialogue with local artisans like the Scottish textile houses, Harris Tweed, Johnstons of Elgin and Esk Cashmere. Robert Mackie, maker of the traditional ceremonial headwear worn by the Scottish regiments, worked on the hats. And young British designer Samantha McCoach, who has been making kilts cool again since 2014 with her brand, Le Kilt, also contributed to the collection.