As a writer, the greatest sense of relief comes when a review practically writes itself, much as it did here. Chloé’s fall/winter 2024 collection, a vintage daydream filled with flouncy, frilly free-flow dresses and bohemian rhapsody chic billowy sleeves, almost looks like it designed itself, too—but instead, we have newly-appointed Creative Director Chemena Kamali, now entering her third stint at the house, to thank for this one.
Kamali’s deep, intimate knowledge of Chloé’s archives is imprinted all over this season, from the intrinsic elegance of Clare Waight Keller’s time (Kamali last worked for the house as Keller’s design director) to the slightly rebellious, rock n’ roll vibes of Stella McCartney, and finally the pared-down, laidback quality of Phoebe Philo, whom Kamali first started working for at Chloé as an intern. What stood out most, however, was Kamali’s close attention to the playful, festive and decidedly feminine precedent for the brand as established by its very first creative directors, founder Gaby Aghion and the inimitable Karl Lagerfeld.
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The effortlessness of Kamali’s personal touch here can best be described as casual cool – clothes which don’t make you think too much, which leave you nothing to “unpack.” This was maybe the first time reviewing a show this season where I saw a simple, but obviously well-constructed, pair of jeans. There’s a fringed ’70s jacket and fringed leather trousers which wouldn’t look out of place at Coachella—and all the better for it. But these leather trousers are styled over bloomer underpants, and boho-chic dresses tucked into one boot… On purpose! There’s a wealth of quirky creative choices here which could only have been made by someone who spent the bulk of their career development as a designer at the house, growing up alongside the brand.
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The best part isn’t only that Kamali doesn’t look like she’s trying too hard—it’s also that she genuinely looks like she’s having fun and filled with joy. From her effusive run out onto the runway after the show, where her young son met her with open arms, one could surely tell this is a woman at the peak of her powers. Her collection brings us back to a time when every girl wanted to be a Chloé girl, a place where only sweet serendipity reigns. Like Philo, who not only catapulted the quiet luxury trend but arguably made it ubiquitous in the first place, Kamali is someone who is here to stay in the cultural zeitgeist for the long run. At a time when all any designer wants to be is to be taken seriously, it is actually heartening to see someone who just feels lucky to be where she is right now: the right director for the right brand, at just the right moment.