It’s hard to believe a perfumer of Francis Kurkdjian’s calibre could do anything other than his current profession, including Francis himself. “It’s not a question I have ever asked myself,” he confesses. “My love for the creative process and aesthetics extends beyond, but fragrance is my primary field of expression.” The French perfumer was always drawn to the idea of creating and expressing beauty in various forms. Growing up in Paris to Armenian parents, he was exposed to the arts through museum visits and ballet lessons. However, it was a glossy page in a French magazine covering the likes of Jacques Polge and the film Le Sauvage, where the lead character is a perfumer, that five-year-old Francis found an interest in the art of perfumery.
Related article: Sniff Test: Inside Francis Kurkdjian’s Miss Dior Essence—A Modern Classic Reborn
While he initially dreamt of being a ballet dancer, his path led him to the world of scents and blotters, and he pursued an education at the ISIPCA, a perfume school located in Versailles, France. Two years after graduating from ISIPCA in Versailles, the then-25-year-old burst onto the fragrance scene with Le Male for Jean Paul Gaultier in 1995, becoming one of the world’s best-selling fragrances. It would become the first of many creations from Francis as a perfumer, having created modern-day classics such as Narcisco Rodriguez for Her and Burberry Her.
Three decades on, the now 56-year-old creates scents as the co-founder of his own fragrance house, Maison Francis Kurkdjian, and Creative Perfume Director at Parfums Christian Dior. While his creations lined the shelves of stores around the world, one of them remains at the forefront of everyone's minds when it comes to popular scents—that is, none other than Baccarat Rouge 540. Taking inspiration from its signature scarlet crystal and alchemic 540°C technique, the fragrance has an amber floral scent with a woody mineral sillage originally commissioned for Baccarat's 250th anniversary.
Related article: Chanel's Olivier Polge Reinterprets Masculinity With Bleu De Chanel L'Exclusif
Most recently, the extrait version of the scent was launched this year to the excitement of its longtime fans. “It’s meaningful to me as it is a continuation of my long relationship with Baccarat, taking inspiration from its signature scarlet crystal and alchemic 540°C technique,” he shares.
Here, Francis sits down with ELLE Singapore to talk about his creative process, navigating success in his twenties, and the global appeal of Baccarat Rouge 540.
Related article: Diptyque Brings “Un Air de Paris” To Shanghai: An Immersive Journey Through Art & Fragrance
How has your upbringing influenced your approach to perfumery?
I grew up in a culturally rich environment where my family exposed me to the art world at a young age, from ballet classes and piano lessons to museum trips. It instilled a profound appreciation for art, music, and nature, influenced my creativity, and allowed me to draw inspiration from the world around me with a sense of identity and emotion.
Has your creative process and philosophy evolved over these past 30 years?
Surprisingly, my creative process has remained the same: I always begin with an emotion or story, never the ingredients. How do you want to create something if you don’t know what you want to say? From there, I envision the final image, and choose a name that captures what I want to express. Only then do I write the formula. I created my Maison around the idea of a fragrance wardrobe—something you choose based on your mood. No one wears the same clothes as well as the same perfume, and the underlying philosophy of it is to inspire people to live, explore, and freely choose who they want to be.
You rose to prominence in your 20s. How did you navigate success at that age?
It was exhilarating yet challenging; I embraced opportunities while remaining true to my creative vision, made sure to stay grounded, focused on my passion, and surround myself with mentors and a strong support network.
What inspires you?
Anything can inspire me if it can be translated into fragrance. For me, Paris, where I grew up and co-founded Maison Francis Kurkdjian, remains an inspiration of my House. Our fragrances, like Petit Matin and Grand Soir, embody the city with its elegance, glamour, sophistication, and that “je ne sais quoi” as we say in France.
With its immense popularity, why do you think Baccarat Rouge 540 resonates across different cultures and generations?
I think people get obsessed with Baccarat Rouge 540 because of its unique, distinct, and instantly recognisable trail. People often tell me they get compliments when they wear it, as it has a balanced amber floral, woody scent that lays on the skin perfectly. It embraces any age or gender, feeling both modern and timeless.
How do collaborations with artists or brands outside of perfumery expand your own creative language?
Collaborations bring new perspectives that push me beyond the usual boundaries of perfumery. Conversations with creators across disciplines, such as visual artist Sophie Calle and theatre director Cyril Teste, enrich my work. A memorable moment was when Sophie asked me to create the smell of money, a fragrance that is both attractive and repulsive, which appeared first in 2003 at the Fondation Cartier pour l’Art Contemporain and again in “Perfume, Sculpture of the Invisible”.
Baccarat Rouge 540 Extrait de Parfum is available for $605 for 70ml in-store at Maison Francis Kurkdjian and on its website.
*This interview has been edited and condensed for clarity