Rainbow Revival: The Vibrant Rise Of Multi-Hued Timepieces In Modern Watchmaking

Conspicuously more understated than their gem-set cousins, these subtle rainbow-coloured watches are no less defiant in their insistence on optimism and style.

By Charmaine Ho

Published: November 25, 2024

Rainbow Revival: The Vibrant Rise of Multi-Hued Timepieces in Modern Watchmaking — The dial of Zenith’s Defy Skyline Tourbillon Felipe Pantone watch reflects a spectrum of lights.

When prism-hued watches first appeared on the horizon in the ’80s (in the form of Rolex’s Cellini), they were met with less-than-positive reactions and regarded as mere novelties that added a point of interest to serious watch collections. Fast forward to 40 or so years later, and rainbow timepieces have gained such momentum that their appearances are no longer limited to just the wrists of music royalty and sports superstars. It seems everyone is eager to get in on the multi-hued action, with the nay’s of yesteryears converting to resounding yay’s. Horology brands, from Audemars Piguet and Breguet to Patek Philippe and Ulysse Nardin have all offered their take on the vibrant trend—myriads of times. The one thing that all the watches had in common was a treasure trove of gems that sparkled unabashedly at the slightest hint of light. As attention-grabbing as they are attractive, these timepieces were made to stand out with a palpable statement. This doesn’t leave much room for people who are keen on partaking in the cheery trend without all the usual fanfare. But thanks to its proliferation and popularity, there’s now a new breed of rainbow-themed designs that lets watch lovers enjoy with discretion.

Take Blancpain’s new Ladybird Colours Phases de Lune timepiece released earlier this year, for example. A picture of sophistication and elegance, the 34.9mm automatic timepiece is graced with a textured mother-of-pearl dial that has been hand-set with 70 brilliant-cut diamonds to form two overlapping circles: One to frame the moonphase indicator at the 6 o’clock position, and the other to frame the rainbow-hued Roman numerals that add a dose of playful whimsy to the aesthetic mix. It’s clear that Blancpain has put much thought into the design of the watch, with each numeral having undergone a five-phase colouring process to ensure saturated shades that stand out amidst the timepiece’s 2 carats worth of diamonds. Equipped with the Calibre 1163L and its promise of a 100-hour power reserve, this watch comes with five additional vibrant leather straps to ensure delight in technicolour.

Breitling presented a similar approach with its rainbow Superocean Automatic editions unveiled at the Wheels and Waves festival in Biarritz, Spain, this June. Available in 36mm and 42mm sizes, the automatic COSC-certified watches are a homage to the brand’s close ties to the ocean, and they were designed to speak to like-minded individuals. This is evident in their robust design with notched bidirectional ceramic-inlay bezels punctuating the sporty nature of the timepieces (they’re water resistant to depths of 30 bar; or 300m). The one thing that truly sets these multicoloured pieces apart? Hour markers and hands that have been coated in a palette of Super-LumiNova hues—red, orange, yellow, green, blue, indigo, violet—for bright, playful pops of colour that stand out during the day and night.

For a less obvious yet no less powerful take, design seekers can turn to Zenith’s special edition Defy Skyline Tourbillon 41, a timepiece that was conceived together with contemporary artist Felipe Pantone (this is the watchmaker’s third collaboration with the Valencia-based optical artist). Featuring the lightning-bolt motif—a Pantone signature—on the tourbillon bridge and alternate hour markers, the automatic watch captivates on first sight with an iridescent dial that reflects light in a manner similar to a CD: It’s crafted from a sapphire disk that has been microengraved with concentric circles before a mirrored metallic finish is applied to its back. A vignette effect of a darkened circumference is then added for a touch of retro nostalgia. To finish the watch off with aplomb, the 3D PVD technique seen on the tourbillon bridge and cage is further complemented by hour markers and hands that have been finished in a gradient of rainbow hues, and a star-shaped oscillating weight with a rainbow PVD finish. Zenith’s El Primero 3630 high-frequency automatic manufacture movement powers this 100-limited edition timepiece.

Also making its views heard in the category is Tissot, whose PRX 40 Powermatic 80 was touted as a watch that gives incredible bang for buck when it was first introduced last year. This year sees the Swiss brand expanding the vintage-inspired range (which takes its design cues from a historical watch from 1978) with several new models, including two editions that bear blue-gradient dials. While not as rainbow-espousing as the rest of the timepieces that have been introduced, the patterned dial of this 40mm automatic watch does, under certain light, look like it’s reflecting a spectrum of colours—as it should, considering its inspiration of skylights changing from dusk to dawn. Other things to note are its 80-hour power reserve and Nivachron hairspring (for enhanced performance arising from its anti-magnetic properties).

Last but not least is Mido’s Multifort TV Big Date timepiece, which makes a special guest appearance on this list for two simple reasons: The vibrant spectrum of colours presented on its dial; and the nostalgic joy it evokes with just one look. Its distinctive TV-shaped case, which Mido first used in the early ’70s, is accompanied by a whimsical TV test screen motif dial that harks back to the good ol’ days before streaming platforms. A big date aperture at the 12 o’clock position and Super-LumiNova coated hands and indexes ensure easy legibility, while a crown protector at its case side protects it from shocks. This is definitely one worth collecting.