It seems the late-’90s New York City working woman is back. She’s all over the small screen, where Sarah Pidgeon will be playing Carolyn Bessette in Love Story, and the runway, where Marc Jacobs showed streamlined, commute-ready looks inspired by the decade at his Monday evening show.

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Making her debut today for Proenza Schouler was Rachel Scott, who is one of the still-rare female designers at the head of a major fashion brand, and, of course, is a New York working woman herself. Scott drew on a heroine who “rejects perfection as constraint,” she wrote in her show notes. “Today, she was in a rush,” thus the pleasantly crumpled textures that seemed to reflect fashion’s growing rejection of the glossy and perfect. (One thing about the Proenza woman: She evidently doesn’t have a beleaguered assistant following her around with a steamer.) The first look out was a teal sheath dress with a pleasantly uneven texture, and the streamlined coats and soft suiting that followed could have made up the wardrobe of a downtown gallery girl back then (and now).

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Scott’s CFDA Award-winning label Diotima draws on her Jamaican heritage and the artisanal techniques native to the region. When she was profiled for ELLE’s Future of Fashion package in 2023, she noted, “I’m aesthetically drawn to it. But also, politically, I’m drawn to this form of making.” For her first run at Proenza, she incorporated some of her beloved craft elements: A chiné technique where thread was woven into the fabric, and fringe accents that erupted from the edges of garments.

This article was first seen on ELLE US.