In the midst of a bitter cold snap, New York Fashion Week fall/winter 2026 unfolded as an ongoing exploration into the qualities of American style. From Coach to Ralph Lauren, designers revisited house codes with renewed conviction, honouring heritage through contemporary silhouettes and tactile storytelling. Here, we distil some of the collections that shaped a week of fashion centred on pragmatism, nostalgia, and an unmistakable sense of forwardness.
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Coach
Whether classic Chevy cars or Keith Haring illustrations, Stuart Vevers has introduced a multitude of American icons in his collections for Coach. For his latest outing at the beloved brand, Vevers stuck to his winning formula—this time drawing inspiration from Old Hollywood films, suburban skate culture, and high-school varsity uniforms.
Under Vevers’s deft direction, these diverse sources yielded an imaginative mix of leather and shearling jackets, repurposed denim, knitwear adorned with eagle and Fair Isle motifs, and evening dresses decorated with star appliques. Shrunken T-shirts marked by varsity stripes and numbers lent the collection a worn-in, grungy appeal.
Tory Burch
Tory Burch unveiled her newest collection within the newly inaugurated headquarters of Sotheby's, set inside Marcel Breuer’s landmark Brutalist structure. Models emerged from behind polished wood-panelled walls in wardrobe archetypes reimagined for contemporary dressing. “By instinct, not rules,” as the show notes declared. Trench coats, henley tees, pencil skirts and corduroy pants carried an effortless attitude inspired by Bunny Mellon, the iconic horticulturist, landscape designer and philanthropist, as well as Burch’s father.
Craft helped to ground the narrative too, from cardigans traced with intricate badla embroidery by Indian artisans to Shetland wool sweaters brushed to cloud-like softness. Drop-waist dresses appeared gently undone, while Burch’s sharp tailoring codes and relaxed sportswear pieces were accentuated with leather-wrapped shell earrings, sardine brooches, and handwoven leather-and-raffia bags.
Ralph Lauren
Within the Jack Shainman Gallery situated near New York’s famed Tribeca district, Ralph Lauren delivered another masterclass in cinematic American luxury—this time weaving adventure with sartorial flair. “My fall 2026 collection is inspired by that kind of renegade spirit and the confidence of the woman who will wear it in her personal way—to tell her own story,” he explains.
Impeccable tailoring anchored the collection: Coats beautifully cut in double-breasted windowpane wool, razor-sharp pants in ultra-lean and wide silhouettes, and exquisite gowns that shimmered with restrained opulence. It was also a collection about textures. More than 50 custom materials, spanning tweeds, jacquards, intricate embroideries, and an abundant mix of leather and shearling, added depth to the timeless, narrative-driven looks.
Michael Kors
How does one celebrate four and a half decades in fashion? Michael Kors answered with a high-octane anniversary presentation at the Metropolitan Opera House. With guests such as Mary J. Blige, Dakota Fanning and Uma Thurman in attendance, it was only natural that he dialed up the drama. Glamour unfurled with Kors’s characteristic ease across a largely monochromatic palette punctuated with accents of red and plum. These were clothes inspired by New York’s electrifying energy. Think: Sumptuous coats, slick suits, richly textured knits, and elegant dresses that were made for women and their multifaceted lives.
Calvin Klein
In the year following her debut at Calvin Klein, Italian designer Veronica Leoni has been examining the house codes that established the label as a powerhouse of American fashion. For fall/winter 2026, she looked to the late 1970s and early 1980s, then added her own take on the minimalist leanings and unabashed sexuality that Calvin Klein is synonymous with. With stints at brands such as Jil Sander, Céline, and The Row under her belt, it was no wonder Leoni’s tailoring boasted the same strict rigour, resulting in sculptural jackets with cinched waists and a denim two-piece layered beneath a dramatically collared coat—a proposal we can’t stop thinking about.
Proenza Schouler
Without a doubt, Rachel Scott’s official debut for Proenza Schouler was among the most discussed highlights of New York Fashion Week. It was a confident, assured start for the Jamaica-born designer, who put her own spin on the brand’s DNA of colour, craft and tailoring. Scott’s approach manifested in a fluid, lean silhouette that traced the body, occasionally punctuated by peplums on jackets. Proenza Schouler signatures such as fringe, grommets and statement buttons returned as accents masterfully placed across collars, statement coats, and contemporary dresses.
Fforme
Founded in 2021 and helmed by Frances Howie, Fforme is a fashion insider’s favourite known for utilising technique to deconstruct modernity. Inspired by Metropolitan, a 1990 film about upper class New York socialites which doubled as a commentary on social mobility, Howie presented a fall/winter collection that twisted the idea of debutante dressing. She collaborated with several Seventh Avenue ateliers and made-to-measure workrooms to bring her vision of “dark elegance” to life, expressed through wardrobe pieces such as monastic dresses (in lieu of frou frou gowns), and shearling accessories that injected a raw, primal edge to the collection.
All photos: launchmetrics.com/spotlight