For decades, editors have their entire schedules around the “big four”: New York, London, Milan, and Paris. Lately, shifting economics and political tensions have tipped the scales toward Europe, but New York isn’t ready to step aside. This season, both the old guards and new proved why the city still matters, bringing creativity, grit, and unmistakable energy to every runway.
Ralph Lauren kicked things off with its signature elegance, while Coach, Calvin Klein, and COS delivered fresh, modern takes on everyday style. Tory Burch staged a proper renaissance, reminding everyone why it's a New York mainstay. Meanwhile, emerging labels like Luar and Fforme impressed with unexpected silhouettes, and established houses Area and Altuzarra showed once again why New York continues to set global trends.
Ralph Lauren
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The ELLE Word: Inside New York Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2026
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The ELLE Word: Inside New York Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2026
Ralph Lauren opened the season with its signature elegance, balancing strength and softness. Tailoring anchored the collection—belted suits, trench jackets, and pedal pushers in black, white, and red—while delicate cuts and unexpected volumes softened the edges. Corseted sundresses, layered minis, and fluid florals transitioned into evening gowns that combined drama with ease. Materials shone with stretch leathers and embroidered suits, and accessories—from sculptural silver jewellery to woven brogues—reinforcing the brand’s confident vision of modern femininity.
Calvin Klein
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The ELLE Word: Inside New York Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2026
Veronica Leoni’s sophomore outing refined Calvin Klein’s stripped-back sensuality into “magnified normality”. Shown at the Brant Foundation, everyday essentials like pinafores, trench coats, polos, jean jackets, even bathrobes, were elevated into urban uniforms charged with a “morning after” ease. Underwear-inspired pieces took centre stage, from slips to tweed logo-detailed dresses. Tailoring balanced cropped silhouettes, revealing cuts with flowing drapery and fringe, while inventive textures—from terrycloth-inspired leather to crocheted fringe—underscored craftsmanship. Paired with Kid Harpoon’s orchestral-pop soundtrack, the show was intimate, modern, and utterly New York.
Area
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The ELLE Word: Inside New York Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2026
After a season away, Area returned under Nicholas Aburn, fresh from Balenciaga couture. The debut wasn’t about reinvention. Rather, it was recapturing downtown thrill. A cropped cargo sweatsuit with an oversized zipper, layered over a crystal-studded “hoodie string” necklace, set the tone: Playful, off-kilter, unmistakably New York. Sparkle threaded through crystal bandeaus, rhinestone-tangled bustiers, and cheeky showgirl minis, while denim—a signature—was reimagined: Trompe-l’oeil jorts, slashed wide legs, and a bow-shaped mini skirt crafted from pant legs. Sportswear collided with fantasy in satin hoodie/tuxedo-skirt hybrids, sequined basketball dresses, and an “evening Mac coat.” The finale saw gowns of tinsel, saucer-sized sequins, and confetti, all set to a marching-band crescendo. It was pure joy.
Fforme
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The ELLE Word: Inside New York Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2026
Frances Howie channelled her New Zealand surf childhood into clothes that felt effortless yet precise: Bare faces, undone hair, ankle-grazing dresses, and braided leather jandals. Scuba references (bonded seams and slick zips) appeared in shell tops and slim skirts, while liquid-silk batwing dresses in silver and electric blue stole the show, anchored by exaggerated back zippers. Light touches—a parchment-hued balloon parka, hammered-gold halter, barely-there knit romper—balanced precision with playfulness. Tailoring was still present and showcased in a grass-green linen-silk suit, sleek satin trousers, and other elevated workwear. A fringed silk dress, wrapped like a post-swim towel, closed the show with understated drama.
Altuzarra
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The ELLE Word: Inside New York Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2026
Joseph Altuzarra’s SS26 collection began with AI in mind—blurring the line between real and unreal—but ultimately celebrated tactility and craft: Florals seemed flat until their 3D petals were revealed; a stole transformed into illustrated bird wings on closer look. Vintage references—’40s and ’80s silhouettes—were pushed further, with balloon pants as the sole trouser option. Faux fur, funnel-neck leather, and suede swing-back jackets anchored the collection: Tactile, tangible, unmistakably real. Altuzarra reminded us that fashion’s magic still lies in craft, detail, and the thrill of touch.
COS
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COS Was A Masterclass In Restrained Sensuality Paired With Sharp Tailoring
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COS Was A Masterclass In Restrained Sensuality Paired With Sharp Tailoring
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COS Was A Masterclass In Restrained Sensuality Paired With Sharp Tailoring
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COS Was A Masterclass In Restrained Sensuality Paired With Sharp Tailoring
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COS Was A Masterclass In Restrained Sensuality Paired With Sharp Tailoring
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COS Was A Masterclass In Restrained Sensuality Paired With Sharp Tailoring
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COS Was A Masterclass In Restrained Sensuality Paired With Sharp Tailoring
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COS Was A Masterclass In Restrained Sensuality Paired With Sharp Tailoring
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COS Was A Masterclass In Restrained Sensuality Paired With Sharp Tailoring
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COS Was A Masterclass In Restrained Sensuality Paired With Sharp Tailoring
COS’s FW25 collection, under Karin Gustafsson, was a study in restrained sensuality. Cocooning volumes, sculptural draping, and high-neck silhouettes balanced sharp tailoring and relaxed trousers, while pony-effect leather, supple shearling, and matte-sheen contrasts added depth. Accessories mirrored the wardrobe’s thoughtful elegance: Coordinated bags, sleek loafers, sock boots. In Menswear, utility was delivered with refinement through oversized shoulders, tonal layering, and soft knits. Every detail, from tempo to look alternation, reinforced COS’s philosophy: Clothes designed to be worn, loved, and lived in.
Coach
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Coach’s Spring 2026 show at Pier 36 was pure New York: Polished yet gritty, resilient yet luminous. Stuart Vevers mixed buttery suede and nappa—some soft, some worn-in—with oversized denim, workwear pieces, and tailored skirts. A light, sun-bleached palette of whites, honey browns, tans, pastel blues, yellows, and greens was punctuated with metallics. Sepia canvas scrims of the city’s facades framed the runway, casting models as if they were walking the streets themselves. The collection was lived-in, luxurious, and utterly modern.
Tory Burch
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The ELLE Word: Inside New York Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2026
Tory Burch explored dualities: Strength and femininity, precision and imperfection. Iconic sportswear—polos, trenches, stripes—met romantic drop-waist dresses and hip-slung trousers. Subtle innovations, like invisible centre-back zippers, gave wearers control. Fabric contrasts like waxed canvas, wool, lamé, silk, and viscose were complemented by hand-pleating, smocking, and seed-bead detailing, turning engineered “imperfections” into design. Handcrafted touches, monograms, and accessories—from beaded shoes to shell-adorned jackets—made the collection feel both personal and timeless.
Luar
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The ELLE Word: Inside New York Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2026
Luar’s downtown show opened in stark white light with models emerging in his-and-hers black pony suits. Raúl Lopez mined the Dominican Republic’s carnival tradition, collaborating with artisans to translate centuries-old techniques into modern wearables. Plastic “Funduses” capes and collars, star-patterned laser-cut fabrics, painterly denim and cotton separates, and amber and larimar jewellery created a dialogue between craft and contemporary fashion. Lean, narrow trousers with slight flares anchored the silhouettes. The collection was a love letter to Lopez’s heritage: Joyful, resilient, and celebratory of communal spirit.
