The Runway Rundown: Gucci's Sabato De Sarno Drops Anchor at the Tate Modern in His Debut Cruise Collection

Gucci returns to London for the 2025 Cruise show.

Published: May 15, 2024

The Runway Rundown: Gucci's Sabato De Sarno Drops Anchor At The Tate Modern In His Debut Cruise Collection — Photo: Courtesy of Gucci

Few London landmarks cut a more striking figure than the Tate Modern’s brutalist façade. No wonder Gucci Creative Director Sabato De Sarno chose the venue to present his debut Cruise collection for the House. On Monday night, 600 fashionable guests descended upon the museum’s Turbine Hall to watch the unveiling of De Sarno's new collection, A-listers Little Simz, Paul Mescal, Solange, and Dua Lipa among them.

The show marked nearly eight years since Gucci last dropped anchor in London (back in 2016, the Italian House, then under the creative directorship of Alessandro Michele, showed at Westminster Abbey). Yet the brand's ties to the city date back much further.

Brand founder Guccio Gucci got a job as a porter at the Savoy Hotel in 1897. While working there, he became inspired by the city’s style and bustling dynamism, deciding to start a luggage label—and the house of Gucci was born.

Now, the 2025 Cruise Collection marks another chapter in the interwoven history of Gucci and the UK capital. Here’s everything you need to know about the show.

The Front Row

It was an impressive turnout from the music world. Little Simz, wearing her signature shirt and tie combination, was joined by Dua Lipa, who wore a quilted black bomber. Rina Sawayama, in a bustier black top and high gloss knee-grazing boots, also took her front row seat, while K-Pop star Lee Know, of Stray Kids fame, cut a striking figure in a full monogrammed suit and horse-bit loafers.

Both Kate Moss and daughter Lila Moss joined the pack, as did Internet it-girl Devon Carlson. Paul Mescal and Andrew Scott both opted for deep v-necks, the former in a soft, tailored all-black ensemble and Scott in a fitted red button-down. Also spotted was Law Roach, so we’re keeping our eyes peeled to see if Zendaya opts for any Gucci on the red carpet soon.

The Setting

The Tate stands out as a concrete jewel among London’s prism of glass skyscrapers. The models inside descended the spiral staircase of the museum’s Turbine Hall before fanning out among the front row. In a surprising move, the space was rendered uncharacteristically verdant, creating an oasis amongst the concrete with ferns and waterfalls of greenery especially brought in for the occasion.

The Sounds

Mark Ronson created the soundtrack for the show, opening with the lulling soundscape of musician Terza before fading into a variation of the Blondie classic, "Heart of Glass", with the band's front-woman Debbie Harry in attendance. It closed with a rendition of Frankie Goes To Hollywood’s "The Power of Love".

The Clothes

First down the staircase and setting the tone was a pussy-bow blouse, rendered delicate in breezy sheer grey organza, paired with a horse-bit pocket detail blazer and wide-leg jeans. This and the preceding opening looks were true to the classic Gucci House codes: Think capes, sunglasses and a slight ’70s tone.

A series of bright white, slightly sheer pieces felt fresh, especially a lingerie short set with a cardigan—a nod to the no-trousers trend. The trouser-less look du jour was also replicated later in the show with sheer shirt-and-skirt sets in black and pink.

The beaded looks packed some serious movement. A beige-coloured pea coat (styled without trousers) saw stones arranged in alternating squares, beautifully capturing the light. Whilst skirts of fine beading over jeans and trousers were dynamic and would add a serious dose of glamour to a summer soirée look.

Closing out the show, a collection of pleated airy gowns swept across the floor, the standouts being those paired with leather bombers.

The Accessories

It's official: Ballet-core is sticking around. Ballet flats featured heavily in the collection, the slip-on pumps eventually graduated into ankle-high ribbon-tied iterations. There was also a healthy dose of loafer and sock combinations and lots of matching accessories to clothes. As for bags, according to De Sarno, the bigger, the better: Next season, prepare to wear your Jackie in super-size.

This article was first seen on ELLE UK.