When you celebrate a decade of unbridled creativity at an esteemed house like Louis Vuitton, you go all out—and that's exactly what Nicolas Ghesquière did. Having joined the luxury behemoth in 2013 as womenswear creative director, Ghesquière has since populated his collections with revolutionary designs that's uniquely him without diluting the Maison's influence. In his latest Pre-Fall collection presented in Shanghai, the renowned designer showed once again, why he's the master of duality.
Related article: Watch the Louis Vuitton Women’s Pre-fall 2024 Show
Good things often come in pairs, and this age-old adage is something that French designer follows closely. With vivid hues and surrealistic animal prints came Louis Vuitton's signature cool and understated tailoring. In short, the collection was a seamless culmination of Ghesquière's emblematic style and the Maison's house codes. A masterful balancing act of two powerhouses; one whose design signifiers were established in the 1800s, and the other, a forward-thinking designer in the 21st century—it's precisely this subversive pairing that's so appealing to the masses.
Through these radical creations, Ghesquière's desire to pay homage to both artisans of a distant time and present came through in a collaboration with Chinese contemporary artist Sun Yitian. The collection opened with the collaborative designs—cartoon-like animals printed across pinafore dresses, coats and miniskirts.
Setting the tone with a playful whimsicality, the collection was quickly followed by a series of abstract floral prints, uniform stripes and checkered prints. Flowing dresses and plunging necklines were cleverly juxtaposed with edgy motorsport jackets while asymmetrical skirts and bell bottoms were a strategic play on proportions that enlivened the silhouettes even more.
Related article: 10 Best Looks From the Chanel Fall/Winter 2024 Show
As for accessories, classic bag silhouettes like the Petite Malle, the Diane, the Side Trunk and the Camera Box returned in both its original designs and refreshed iterations. Meanwhile, the Maison also welcomes a brand-new silhouette—the Slim Trunk. The epitome of rock'n'roll, this ultra-edgy creation takes cues from the Maison's timeless trunks and infuses them with modern-day influences. Crafted in supple calfskin, this chain shoulder bag is embellished with a riveted frame and silver-tone metal.
Related article: Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2024 Trend Report: Everything You Need to Know
Deeply inspired by the stylistic vitality of China's youth, the collection was every bit as multi-faceted and rebellious as the designer himself. From the combination of contrasting textures and silhouettes; think ultra-soft knitwear and sturdy leather, masculine tailored suits and ultra-feminine bubble dresses, symmetrical tops paired with asymmetrical bottoms, the designer's sartorial defiance aligns with the concept that rules are merely suggestions, and in many cases, arbitrary. To Ghesquière, the refusal to conform is more than a creative statement, but an all-encompassing way of life. And in embracing such a sobering revelation—he still manages to have fun.
Photos courtesy of Louis Vuitton.