Fendi Enters Its New Era Under Maria Grazia Chiuri

The designer makes her debut at the Roman brand with a collection rooted in pragmatism, restraint and inclusivity.

Published: March 2, 2026

Fendi Enters Its New Era Under Maria Grazia Chiuri — Photo: Courtesy of Fendi

Fendi turns 101 this year, and is marking this new chapter with the arrival of a new creative director: Maria Grazia Chiuri, formerly the head of womenswear at LVMH stablemate, Dior. Dior was always a big and beloved brand, but under Chiuri’s stewardship, it became a commercial behemoth. Now, she is bringing that same sharp commercial sensibility to Fendi.

Her debut collection for the House is rooted in pragmatism and restraint. Followers and fans of Chiuri’s work—of which there are plenty—know that she is not the kind of designer to revel in spectacle (well, not in the clothes, at least). She prefers instead to put forth pieces that comfortably and effortlessly slip into the wardrobes and lives of the women she dresses—and now, for the first time as a solo creative director, for men as well.

The first few looks make clear her intention for this new Fendi: A knee-length silk shirtdress under a black blazer; slim (but not skinny) tailoring worn with collarless shirts; flattering V-necks and flared-out hemlines; silk blouses edged in lace and worn with mannish slacks. These are not clothes you will tire of after a season or two—they are uniforms and staples you will return to over and over again.

Chiuri balances out the strictness and simplicity of her silhouettes with rich surface treatments that show off the capabilities of the Fendi ateliers. Velvets are made to look like shaved mink or silk; mirror embroideries lend a glittering texture to gilets; and leather is laser-cut to look like lace.

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Titled Less I, More Us, the collection is also Chiuri’s call-to-arms for inclusivity in an increasingly exclusionary and fractured world. What this means in the context of a luxury fashion house is to provide something for everyone, and for every occasion. Hence, trouser suits and skirt suits for work; cargo shorts and T-shirts for off-duty moments; silken or sheer gowns for evening. There are romantic lace and velvet dresses for the girly girl; or khaki boiler suits and camo jackets for the tomboy. In fact, inclusivity for Chiuri also means a shared wardrobe between the sexes, erasing his-and-hers boundaries. Many of her looks were shown twice, as identical versions on both female and male models. While the 20-or-so men’s looks can come off as too sober compared to the womenswear, think of them as a prologue for what’s to come in June’s standalone men’s show.