Dior Presents A Compelling Dialogue Between Tradition And Rebellion For Cruise 2025

Maria Grazia Chiuri weaves Scottish heritage into modern fashion.

Published: December 20, 2024

Dior's Cruise 2025 Presents A Compelling Dialogue Between Tradition And Rebellion — Photo: Courtesy of Dior

Scotland may not be the first place that comes to mind when you think of Dior, but for Maria Grazia Chiuri, it was an inspired choice. Drummond Castle’s sprawling gardens, steeped in centuries of history, offered the perfect backdrop for her Cruise 2025 collection. Once graced by the late Queen Victoria herself, the setting mirrored Chiuri’s vision for the collection: A seamless dialogue between heritage and contemporary design.

In designing the collection, Chiuri drew quite literally from the country’s rich cultural fabric: Tartans, tweeds and cashmere took centre stage. Inspired by figures such as Mary, Queen of Scots, the collection borrowed historical elements like puffed sleeves, corseted waists, and pearl collars, and reimagined them for the modern woman. Corsetry appeared on shirting and outerwear, bustiers were styled with utilitarian anoraks and waders, and traditional crinoline shapes were transformed into playful miniskirts.

This collision of historical grandeur and modern practicality felt fresh, bold, and undeniably Dior. The collection’s palette was deeply evocative, blending jewel tones like emerald and ruby with earthy greens, browns, and greys inspired by Scotland’s rugged landscapes. Tartan, a quintessential Scottish motif, featured prominently in shades of purple, red, olive, and yellow. In counterpoint to its traditional associations, Chiuri’s tartans also carried a punk edge—a nod to its subversion by countercultures since Vivienne Westwood’s ‘70s heyday. This influence was evident in the collection’s studs, grommets, eyelets, chains, and harness straps, adding a hard-edged contrast to the romanticism of puffed sleeves and nipped waists.

This juxtaposition of prim and punk was most striking in leather dresses featuring lace collars and leg-of-mutton sleeves. Their sharply cut hemlines and bold juxtapositions against biker boots over argyle socks encapsulated the collection’s modernity. It was this blend of hard and soft, traditional and rebellious, that gave Dior’s Cruise 2025 collection its depth and visual intrigue. And with layers of colour and texture, the silhouettes felt anything but restrained.

Chiuri’s exploration of tartan went beyond surface aesthetics. Often associated with royalty and rebellion, the fabric became a symbol of layered identities. By incorporating tartan into eveningwear and tailoring, she reframed it as a motif of both tradition and self-expression. These reimaginings elevated tartan from its historical roots and positioned it as a modern symbol of versatility and individuality. Of course, central to the collection’s success was Chiuri’s deep respect for craftsmanship. Collaborating with some of Scotland’s finest mills and artisans, such as Johnstons of Elgin, Harris Tweed, and Esk Cashmere, she brought authenticity to the materials.

British designer Samantha McCoach of Le Kilt also lent her expertise, while Robert Mackie contributed traditional ceremonial headwear. Traditional weaves, hand-dyed fabrics, and meticulous embroidery honoured techniques passed down through generations, while contemporary design touches made them feel fresh and relevant. Accessories played a pivotal role in amplifying the collection’s narrative. The brand’s iconic bag styles—the Saddle, Lady Dior, and Bobby—were also reimagined with punk-inspired details such as studs and grommets, infusing a rebellious spirit into these classic silhouettes. Leather riding boots, adorned with straps and zippers, embodied bold femininity, while silk scarves featuring floral motifs reminiscent of the Scottish wilderness added a whimsical touch to the layered ensembles.

But what truly set this collection apart was its ability to balance opposing forces. Chiuri juxtaposed delicate chiffon gowns with structured outerwear, offering a wardrobe that felt equally suited for a windswept moor and a cosmopolitan cityscape. One standout piece, a floor-length gown in deep ruby, featured subtle tartan accents woven into its design—a nod to tradition without looking old-fashioned. Indeed, the Dior Cruise 2025 collection was an ode to the strength and complexity of the modern woman. The pieces were designed to empower while offering versatility and individuality. For instance, a woman in a tailored blazer and leather biker boots could just as easily transition to an embroidered cape and silk scarf, embracing the multifaceted roles in her day-to-day life. This sense of duality ran through the entire collection, giving it a depth that felt both wearable and poetic.

Sustainability was another thread running through the collection. By working with local artisans and incorporating eco-conscious practices, Chiuri ensured the designs were visually compelling and responsible. Materials like recycled tweeds and natural dyes underscored Dior’s commitment to preserving both cultural and environmental heritage. It was a reminder that luxury and sustainability need not be at odds. Chiuri described the collection as “a dialogue between history and modernity,” and this intent was clear throughout. The collection succeeded in connecting with a contemporary audience without losing sight of its historical roots.

SETTING THE SCENE

The show at Drummond Castle was just the latest chapter in the long history between Dior and Scotland. In his sophomore collection, for fall/winter 1947, Christian Dior named an ensemble Écosse—French for Scotland. Since then, the House’s affinity with the country has only grown. In 1951, the designer presented a collection in Perthshire, a Scottish county; four years later, he threw a charity ball at The Gleneagles Hotel, where he also showed more than 100 looks from his spring/summer 1955 collection.

The relationship continued to flourish even after the designer’s death. In 1960, the brand hosted a fundraiser at Scone Palace to benefit two Scottish charity organisations. The gardens of the Drummond Castle where the Dior Cruise 2025 collection was presented is unmistakably Scottish, though it also carries French and Italian Renaissance influences, making it the perfect backdrop for this conversation between Scotland, an iconic French brand and an Italian designer.