The scene was set in the very heart of Manchester, where the historic charm of Thomas Street meets a spirited celebration of fashion. It was here in the city’s industrial Northern Quarter that outgoing creative director Virginie Viard unveiled Chanel’s Métiers d’Art 23/24 collection last December. The collection is the brand’s annual showcase of all the artisans housed under its le19M umbrella, which keeps the craft of couture alive. Viard combined the city’s rich musical heritage—Manchester is where musical legends the likes of Oasis, Joy Division, New Order, and The Smiths hailed from—with quintessential Chanel sophistication, resulting in a symphony of colour and texture.
This spirit of creativity is vividly captured in the collection’s campaign, which was released last month. Shot by Swedish photographer Mikael Jansson, the campaign is a playful pop interpretation of tweed. Models Lulu Tenney, Loli Bahia and Alaato Jazyper brought the collection to life by embodying modern, joyful femininity in striking black-and-white and coloured diptychs.
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The monochrome images highlight the graphic lines of the suits, coats, and jackets, accessorised with tweed caps by hat maker Maison Michel, and camellias by Maison Lemarié, master of feather and floral creations. In contrast, the colour images showcased the dynamic potential of tweed: A bright green jacket trimmed with braid and croquet by the Paloma atelier, known for its intricate fabric work, was paired with the iconic 11.12 bag; a lilac tweed jacket came with built-in silk cuffs; and an orange coat was accessorised with a matching bag.
Viard’s inspiration for the collection came from Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel herself. “Tweed is central to this collection,” she explained. “I took my cue from Coco, who brought colour to her tweeds. I added a vibrant, pop spirit to them.” To be clear, this isn’t your grandmother’s tweed. Think salmon pink that echoes the vivid hues of a Macunian sunset, and apple green that brings to mind the rolling hills of the English countryside. Other key colours in the collection include mustard, sky blue, red and rust. These hues, carefully chosen to enhance the overall narrative of the collection, breathed new life into the classic fabric, and felt both familiar and refreshingly new.
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Manchester, known for its legendary music scene, served as the perfect muse for Viard, lending an urgent new energy to classic Chanel elements such as chains at the bottom of jackets, contrasting linings, and topstitched panels that offer freedom of movement. Though inherently a French house, Chanel’s long-standing relationship with Britain was unmistakably present in the collection. Wraparound skirts, miniskirts with godets, Bermuda shorts, and coat dresses were created in luxurious tweed, Shetland knits and cashmere. The fitted cuts and slightly low-slung waists offered a modern (and Mod-ish) take on classic silhouettes. Pleats, feathers, and other intricate embroideries by the Métiers d’Art artisans amplified the sense of elegance, while playful motifs of teapots, vinyl records, and flowers injected whimsical flair. Instead of vertiginous heels, the looks were grounded by black Mary-Jane shoes, which added to the collection’s retro charm.
Delving deeper into the collection, the meticulous craftsmanship of Chanel’s Paloma atelier stands out. Picture this: A black satin skirt adorned with 118 meticulously placed hand-woven bouclette flowers in shades of pink, black, and white. This playful nod to English tea cosies that often feature crochet flowers, set beneath a Lesage embroidered tweed overcoat, is one of the many examples of the level of detail that Chanel’s ateliers bring to life. The flowers were hand-woven from the same tweed of the coat, unknitted and then knitted again.
Another highlight is an apple green tweed suit where crochet meets smocking, emphasising the jacket’s oversized proportions with croquet trim on the cuffs, collar, and pockets. Additionally, removable pleated plastrons in hues of lilac, raspberry pink or peach enhance the velvet jersey tops, which are then further adorned with small tweed bows. This level of craftsmanship is one of Chanel’s hallmarks, where every detail is executed with precision and care, no matter how small. Here, Viard’s vision extends beyond mere aesthetics. By bringing a contemporary twist to classic elements, she pays homage to Chanel’s innovative spirit. Moving away from the monochromatic palettes she tends to favour, Viard’s choice of saturated, pop hues that dominate the collection is also a nod to the founder’s love for bringing colour to tweeds.
Indeed, with this collection, Viard is telling a story of how the eclectic mix of influences—from football to music to genteel countryside living—reflects the diverse interests and experiences of the modern woman. Each piece in the collection is intended to allow the wearer to express her own individuality and style. So while this collection speaks to the dynamic, multifaceted nature of women today, what makes it truly unforgettable is how it lets us wear a piece of history while writing our own stories. Because, at the end of the day, isn’t fashion all about making a statement and having fun while doing it?