In fashion, desire is not merely an outcome; it is the business itself. Designers create it, shape it, and inspire it through clothes, accessories, and the worlds they build around them. This season, COS offered just that with its fall/winter 2025 collection.
Stripped back and reimagined as a stark white, minimalist set, Brooklyn’s Greenpoint Terminal Warehouse set the stage for COS’ see-now-buy-now collection. Suspended light boxes shifted from a soft, warm glow to a crisp, illuminating white as Design Director Karin Gustafsson’s 47 looks came down the runway—each distinctive, refined, and quietly powerful.
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The opening look, modelled by South Korean Sora Choi, set the tone: A barely oversized navy tailored coat, with an angular lapel that extended into a deep V-neckline, was paired with languid, straight-leg trousers that moved with ease. It wasn’t so much model-off-duty as it was off-the-clock professional. Chic without trying, bold in its understatement.
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In contrast to the brightly-lit, pared-down setting, the clothes anchored themselves in a sophisticated palette of inky darks—black, steel grey, and deep navy—softened by neutral accents. Rich textures elevated the offering: Pony-effect finishes, supple leather, and shearling added depth, while the interplay of matte and sheen gave garments a tactile quality. Sheer panels punctuated the line-up, introducing flashes of translucency that revealed the body in motion, while heritage-inspired checks re-emerged on ready-to-wear, accessories, and footwear.
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Throughout womenswear, COS explored cocooning volumes, sculptural draping, and enveloping scarves that framed the face. Cinched waists, feminine cuts, and open necklines referenced the 1950s New Look, modernised through pared-back styling. Accessories carried the same design codes: Bags matched the garments in fabrication and finish, while sleek leather loafers and sock boots completed the silhouettes with contemporary ease.
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Menswear leaned into functionality without compromising refinement. Oversized proportions and sharp shoulders spoke of the now, while tonal layering across complementary fabrics updated the concept of set dressing. Buttoned epaulettes, pocket detailing, and coordinated trousers nodded to utility, while basketweave knits and chenille surfaces added warmth and tactility. Leather boots and trainers in tonal colourways grounded the looks.
The entire collection reads like a tightly curated capsule wardrobe that’s equally at home in the office, at dinner, or on the road. And that was entirely the point: These clothes are made to follow their consumers through the years, as they build wardrobes rather than replace them season after season.
When asked why a London-based Swedish brand would continue to show in New York, Gustafsson said: “We have been committed to making New York City the home of our fall/winter shows since September 2022. It is a high-energy, dynamic city, and such a huge source of inspiration for us—a global stage for creativity and culture. It's so exciting to be back this September to showcase our latest collection.”
That global pull was reflected in the front rows, where American actor Christopher Briney, Bollywood starlet Aditi Rao Hydari, I-dle’s Shuhua, South Korean actor Lee Jun-young, Japanese-American singer-songwriter Mika Hashizume, and Thai actors Pruk Panich and Namtan Tipnaree gathered to witness the brand’s vision.
“For me, it is about creating clothes that stand the test of time yet always feel of the moment. My hope is that COS continues to be a go-to destination for modern wardrobe essentials—pieces that combine craftsmanship with timeless design, created to be worn and re-worn for years to come. With fall/winter 2025, that balance feels especially clear: Generous silhouettes and rich textures grounded in enduring quality and ease, but expressive in their contrasts. Looking ahead, I see COS evolving with our customers, offering a wardrobe that not only endures, but inspires.”
Mission accomplished.