Label To Love: Peggy Hartanto Is The Designer To Watch

The womenswear brand uses the simple power of nostalgia to deliver fanciful designs that exude childlike wonder.

Published: December 11, 2024

Petty, Peggy, and Lydia Hartanto of Peggy Hartanto. Photo: Courtesy of Peggy Hartanto

In a sea of sober, serious styles currently dominating the fashion landscape, Peggy Hartanto stands out for its refusal to conform. Yet, the womenswear brand is neither rebellious nor avant-garde—it taps into the simple power of nostalgia to deliver fanciful designs that exude childlike wonder. Established in 2012, the Indonesia-based label is the brainchild of sisters Peggy, Petty, and Lydia Hartanto.

It all started with Peggy Hartanto’s lifelong ambition to be a designer. After getting her degree from the Raffles College of Design and Commerce in Sydney, Hartanto returned to her hometown to start a ready-to-wear brand, which made its debut at Jakarta Fashion Week that same year. “The feedback was amazing in terms of press and retail, and it was then my sisters came on board,” recalls Peggy. With Peggy spearheading the creative direction, Petty took charge of branding and visuals while Lydia oversaw strategy and operations. Twelve years on, the womenswear label has grown substantially with stockists across Europe and Asia, including societyA in Singapore.

“We want to infuse a spirit of dreaminess and feel-good whimsy into our collections, embracing the idea that fashion should be both expressive and uplifting. We love to dream, and oftentimes we find inspiration in the fantastical realm of fairytales and storybooks,” asserts Peggy. Imbued with youthful irreverence, the label’s pieces immediately stand out for their unconventional silhouettes and dreamlike, surrealist details. Sweet, girlish motifs such as flowers, hearts and scallop edges are also a recurring feature.

Peggy Hartanto's Charm collection. Photo: Courtesy of Peggy Hartanto

Peggy credits the brand’s varied aesthetic to the diverse locales and artistic genres that inspire her. “It begins with a concept, which can come from anywhere—I love architecture, performances, movies, or even places I’ve been to,” she says. For instance, the recently released Charm collection mirrors the distinct shapes of the Japanese handcrafted dolls featured in the annual Hina no Tsurushi Kazari Festival.

Peggy Hartanto's Encore collection. Photo: Courtesy of Peggy Hartanto

Meanwhile, the Encore capsule heavily references The Nutcracker. The ballet’s most enchanting moments were translated into structured curve-panelled dresses and transparent raschel knit fabrics that emulate the delicate nature of a tutu.

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Exuding a similar whimsicality to Peggy Hartanto, Shuting Qiu explores the archetype of the modern romantic. Characterised by experimental silhouettes and elaborate embroidery on delicate fabrics, the Shanghai-based label puts a subversive twist on the feminine. Explore its array of playful wrap dresses or its latest collaboration with Uggs, a threepiece collection filled with clashing prints and colours.

MARI SANTAI

Hailing from Surabaya, this Indonesia-based label is inspired by slow living and prioritises sustainability across all fronts. Exuding a contemporary and feminine essence, peplum tops and flowy skirts embellished with ribbons and hand-sewn pearls are some of Mari Santai’s bestsellers. The garments are also primarily crafted from natural fibres like cotton and upcycled fabrics—ensuring maximised breathability in tropical climates.

SOPHIE ISABELLA

The Canadian label is renowned for its dreamy knitwear pieces. Rendered in soft pastel hues, each Sophie Isabella piece is hand knitted and uses ethically sourced fibres like silk mohair, alpaca, and merino. Apart from its beloved Marionette-inspired dresses and mini skirts, the brand also has an assortment of irreverent accessories like lace collars and leg warmers.