During uncertain socio-political times, designers tend to return to the comforting embrace of the familiar, producing nostalgic collections that reference decades-old archives and historical movements. But, in the kaleidoscopic universe of Celine Kwan, nostalgia is more than just a temporary respite—it is the central ingredient that breathes life into her irreverent yet emotionally charged creations. Launched in 2022, the London-based namesake label has been credited with revolutionising “kawaii style” through playful designs that radiate unadulterated joy.
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A self-professed fashion lover since childhood, Kwan credits her mother’s impeccable sense of style as an early source of inspiration. “My mother would always dress up for dim sum Sundays and she paired her looks with an iconic red lip no matter the outfit. She always told me it is better to overdress than to underdress,” Kwan fondly recalls. Cementing her ambition to be a fashion designer since her pre-teen days, Kwan studied fashion print at Central Saint Martins. In the three years since her graduation, Kwan has cut her teeth at renowned couturier Viktor & Rolf, created custom pieces for musical icons like Lizzo and Melanie Martinez, and even scored a collaboration with Casetify.
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The key to her kitschy pieces being a hit amongst celebrities and the masses? A refusal to be taken seriously and by channeling a light-hearted cheekiness into her design process. “I genuinely love to make people laugh and I think this ethos comes across in my work naturally.” Kwan’s pieces energise wearers through exaggerated silhouettes splashed with eyeball-grabbing slogans, whimsical florals, and adorable leitmotifs of poodles modelled after her own childhood dogs.
The 27-year-old designer also attributes her idiosyncratic taste to her multi-cultural upbringing in Hong Kong and the UK. “Compared to the more traditional sensibilities of Hong Kong culture, I think my formative teen years in the UK were a very experimental period for me,” explains Kwan.
The label’s most recent spring/summer 2025 collection entitled “Never Cute, Always Adorable” is also a nod to Kwan’s enduring fascination with pop culture. Inspired by the emo and goth subcultures that surfaced on Tumblr in the late noughties, the collection presents a riveting dichotomy of teenage angst and endearing charm. This is seen in the pairing of cyber sigilism and metal-studded accessories with lovable dog prints.
IF YOU LOVE CELINE KWAN, CHECK THESE OTHER LABELS OUT
SULTRY VIRGIN
Founded in 2020 by Chinese designers Edge Yang and Qiuge Wang, Sultry Virgin is a contemporary label that aims to empower women through its individualistic, hyper-feminine designs. Sensual yet girlish silhouettes like babydoll dresses and matching twinsets are layered with glamorous fur coats for an excitedly defiant twist.
LEEANN HUANG
Based in Los Angeles, Leeann Huang blends traditional craft techniques with inventive materials to create fantastical pieces of clothing. Guided by an environmentally sustainable ethos, the brand prides itself for utilising unconventional textiles that are primarily recycled, or deadstock materials. Some of its most popular pieces include its holographic flower tote bags and lenticular boots adorned with striking prints.
MILA SULLIVAN
Mila Sullivan is a New York-based label that deconstructs vintage textiles to create modern yet theatrical silhouettes. Offering an off-kilter take on coquette style, the brand’s ready-to-wear pieces stand out for their distinctive patchwork patterns and experimental crafting techniques. Each piece is also one-of-a-kind and hand-crafted by the brand’s eponymous founder.