Established in 2019, a fledgling label like DIDU could have played it safe, cementing its design codes while churning out commercially successful collections in its early years. Yet, the eponymous brand of the 2022 Yu Prize finalist has proven that a refusal to conform has only propelled it to greater heights.

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“I realised I wanted to be a fashion designer in high school,” shares Di Du. “That eureka moment happened after watching a documentary on Fashion TV about a designer who travelled to Venice and translated her experiences into textile and garment designs.” Now, after a decade of pursuing this dream to be a fashion designer, the Antwerp Royal Academy of Fine Arts alum has since shown numerous times on the Paris Fashion Week roster and has amassed a number of celebrity fans, which includes the likes of Doja Cat, Rosalia and Damiano David of Måneskin.

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Credited with redefining modern-day sex appeal, it comes as no surprise that some of DIDU’s most raved pieces are its dresses with revealing cut-outs and barely-there bralettes. Yet, this provocativeness should not be mistaken for merely pandering to the “Sex Sells” ideology. One just has to look beneath the surface to discover that the contemporary label’s garments are thoughtfully conceptualised and exceptionally constructed.

Di’s recent collaboration with New Balance is also proof that her boundary-pushing ethos carries across other facets of design. Titled the “NB Hyper Sports” collection, Di combined the sportswear brand’s technical craftsmanship with her own avant-garde approach. Rendered in a monochromatic palette, the cropped windbreakers and running shorts are understated, lightweight and the embodiment of functional chic.

Splitting her time between the bustling metropolises of Shanghai and Paris, the 32-year-old also credits this meeting of cultures as a major source of inspiration. “My work embodies a blend of both places, creating an ‘in-between’ cultural expression,” explains Di. Her latest fall/winter 2024 “NEVERMORE” collection—a clever blend of grunge influences with razor-sharp silhouettes—is a testament to this boundless creativity. “The inspiration for it comes from Edgar Allan Poe’s poem, ‘The Raven’, one of my favourites. I wanted to present a romantic yet dark narrative, reflecting Poe’s aesthetic through my garments and the overall show,” shares Di.

Instead of working for another fashion house, what made you decide to start DIDU?

Initially, I was considering an internship at Margiela, but concerns about visa issues in Paris led me to reconsider. Returning to China to start my own brand felt like the right choice, especially since I had already garnered some attention from the industry.

You are based in Shanghai and Paris. How do you express these two cultures in your work?

As an observer, I have the freedom to traverse and merge different cultural influences. I thrive on freshness, excitement, and discovery. For me, a single direction without cultural conflicts is insufficient. I embrace these conflicts, as they provide diverse perspectives and enrich my creative process.

What is your creative process like?

I start with words and the overall vibe I want to convey. From there, I build the collection around tactile elements, textures, and colours. This approach allows me to create a cohesive and immersive experience through my designs.

Can you tell us more about your recent collaboration with New Balance?

Designing activewear for New Balance was a dynamic and exciting experience. It allowed me to delve into the functionality of activewear and understand the processes big brands use to turn designs into products. The collaboration was a fantastic opportunity to expand my design skills and knowledge.

You’ve mentioned that your designs were created with the aim to empower women and encourage self-love. How do you think women should dress to feel their best?

Women should dress in a way that makes them feel comfortable and amazed by their reflection. It’s about falling in love with yourself when you look in the mirror, discovering new facets of your identity. However, this doesn’t mean always being dressed up. Sometimes, it’s perfectly fine to be chill, lazy, and effortless. Our collection aims to meet both these demands, offering pieces that cater to various moods and occasions.

*This interview has been edited and condensed for clarity.