Under Daniel Roseberry, Schiaparelli has thrived through layers of intricately constructed garments. Whether it’s his modern embrace of celebrity—including Kendall Jenner in the cast and Kylie Jenner alongside ELLE US’ September 2025 cover girl Rosalía cheering her on in the audience—or his Surrealist embellishments and hidden technical tricks, his approach possesses a depth not accessible at a quick glance. It goes without saying that tonight’s spring/summer 2026 collection was worthy of a double take.

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The title, “Dancer in the Dark,” invited interrogation. Could it subtly allude to the raunchy burlesque dancers that made the brand’s home city so famous, or is it the most literal option, represented by a chalk-like scribble that illuminated a black dress in the dimly lit room of the Centre Pompidou? The life of a Schiaparelli showgirl made for an intriguing proposition.

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Roseberry walked the tightrope between tension and fluidity. Necklines were scrunched on paper blouses, sculpted fingers protruded from a clutch to hold your hand, and gold paintbrushes weighed down a two-piece ensemble, while lacquered eggshell-shaped hats grounded the collection in Elsa’s signature eccentricities (perhaps the same brushes that painted the glowing outlines). But where there was stiffness, there was also total release. Alex Consani sauntered down the runway in as free a dress as possible, mere sheer black wisps floating around her, weighed down by a gold string of illuminated stones down her back. Kendall Jenner was nearly bare, wearing only a lace thong and tufts of black ponyhair.

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Through both extremes, this woman is in pursuit of perfection. Even when dresses have faux-peeling cutouts, make no mistake about the meticulous intention behind every design. The ready-to-wear often borders on demi-couture, feedback which he now readily embraces. The designer has brought sparkle back to the venerated brand and has built his own cult of personality in doing so. On the runway, he gives, and the fashion fanatics (and loyal customers) take. There are always two sides to the Schiaparelli coin: weight and lightness—and when Roseberry achieves balance, he is at his best.

This story was first seen on ELLE US.