Long recognised for its unparalleled craftsmanship and attention to detail, Max Mara has always been the picture of understated luxury and tasteful opulence. Classic, feminine and always impeccably tailored, the brand has been at the forefront of fashion, shaping the dressing of the powerful contemporary woman as she’s evolved over the better part of the last century. Now, Max Mara looks to the social elite of the Gilded Age, forever enshrined in American painter John Singer Sargent’s image, tapping on the idiosyncratic femininity of his subjects to inform its new pre-fall 2025 collection.
Related article: Ladies Suits Are Hotter Than Ever: Here’s How & Where To Get Your First Power Suit
At the heart of the collection is Sargent’s portrait of Madame X, Virginie Amélie Avegno Gautreau. Famed for her singular beauty and impeccable grooming, the Parisian socialite’s image in the painting was risque for its time—the bareness of her low-cut gown and lack of jewellery encroached on ideas of modesty at the time, earning both artist and subject a lifetime of shame and sensationalism. The portrait of Madame X is revived as sweetheart bodices across printed tops and sleek black dresses, calling back to the controversial silhouette depicted and Max Mara’s own ideas of contemporary feminine elegance.
Related article: Actress Joey King On Being A Woman In Film And Representing Max Mara
While painters before Sargent’s time painted their portraits in studies and sitting rooms, he chose to situate his subjects where their personalities came alive, from the mystery of the boudoir to sun-drenched gazebos. Here, Max Mara brings the lush foliage of a garden to us in blouses, dresses, skirts and rompers drenched in lively deep green hues and monochromatic floral prints.
Related article: This Season’s Biggest Trend? A Creative Director Debut
Elsewhere in the collection, Max Mara marries the flamboyant excess of the Gilded Age with its keen sense of modernity, with bows and peplum details emerging in dressy blazers, boardroom-worthy blouses and poplin shirts with billowing sleeves. To complete the looks, tapered trousers, pointed ballet flats and a belted jacket refreshed with sharply tailored tails.