In his fourth runway outing for Burberry, Daniel Lee demonstrated a newfound ease which signified that he is finally settling into his role at the label. Tasked with bringing high fashion bona fides to a megabrand best known for its protective outerwear, Lee sometimes did too much to reconcile the two in his earlier seasons. Now, gone were the overwrought elements that occasionally weighed down his clothes. His spring/summer 2025 collection was more direct and commercial than his previous Burberry efforts—and it was all the better for it. 

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There was a new lightness to the way Lee took on Burberry’s outdoorsy codes. The signature trench coat was slashed to the length of a moto jacket, worn with knee-length shorts; or deconstructed into flared dresses and short, swingy capes. Leather jackets were shrunken and washed to look aged, giving them an attractive worn-in feel. Anoraks came trimmed with feathers, and trousers were ventilated with full-length zippers running down each leg. 

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The dominant silhouette for both him and her was tight and cropped on top, soft and roomy below. It worked best as pairings of military jackets with billowing skirts for women, and cinched field jackets with zipper-laden trousers for men. The irreverent combo of oversized parkas thrown over sequinned dresses was also appealing—a look that telegraphed Brit cool and nonchalance. Some of the most straightforward looks were the most effective: Finely striped blouses with matching scarves clipped around the neck, worn with trousers in wider stripes. It would be exciting to see Lee take Burberry in this direction further.

Photos: Courtesy of Burberry