Aesop is about to shatter your perception of floral fragrances with the unveiling of Aurner. Launched on 17 February, this avant-garde scent is the brainchild of renowned perfumer Céline Barel. A native of Grasse, France, Barel first collaborated with Aesop in 2015 for Tacit (a woody-citrus fragrance distinguished by its liberal use of Basil Grand Vert and fresh citrus notes) which would become one of the brand’s bestselling fragrances across the globe. Aurner is her second creation for the brand, which she considers a departure from the former, as it centres on a very unconventional set of ingredients that pushes the boundaries of what a genderless floral scent can be.
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Aurner—an Old Norse verb which means "to be adorned, to be embellished with flowers"—combines key ingredients of Magnolia Leaf, Roman Chamomile and Cedar Heart for a resolutely unorthodox aroma that can be best described as botanical, fresh, aromatic, spicy, woody, and almost tea-like. The brand calls it a nonconformist floral fragrance—a "defiant bloom".
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To celebrate the launch, Aesop hosted an immersive two-day experience starting at its unique stores in Seoul, each reflecting its surroundings and identity. At the Hannam branch, an old shophouse became a canvas for contrasting textures, merging historical architecture with contrasting materials like resin, brass, and wood. Meanwhile, Aesop Seongsu showcased sustainable practices, using vintage and upcycled wood furniture, while transforming food waste into compost for its flourishing garden.
The event also took attendees through an engaging craft workshop at a popular café, Veggie Weekend, where they learned to make scented paper magnolias. Culinary delights enriched the experience, with a lively barbecue dinner at Tteurak and a degustation at two-Michelin-starred Kwonsooksoo, providing a taste of what Seoul has to offer.
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The journey culminated in a captivating perfume presentation at Kir Studio, where guests were immersed in a mock laboratory setting that laid the groundwork for a deeper understanding of Aurner. Here, Barel led a workshop that unravelled her meticulous creative process and the carefully chosen ingredients that give this fragrance its complex yet accessible character.
Complementing this release, Aesop teamed up with Thai jewellery designer, Patcharavipa Bodiratnangkura, to create 200 pieces of rhodium-plated 925 sterling silver ear cuffs (available in selected markets), marrying fragrant allure with artistic craftsmanship.
In this exclusive interview, she shares her insights into the delicate art of fragrance-making, the challenges faced during the creation of Aurner, and the deeper aspirations she hopes wearers will experience with this unconventional floral masterpiece.
Can you share more about your vision for Aurner?
Aesop’s request was to create something truly unconventional—iconoclastic and rule-breaking. The brief included inspiring hues of green from jade, a poem by Chinese poetess Li Qingzhao, and a song by Nina Simone, all leading me toward specific flowers. Emphasising green was crucial, which guided my decision to use the magnolia leaf instead of a typical white flower. The leaf offers a fresh, lush aroma, in contrast to the petal-like, fruity notes of conventional florals. By incorporating the magnolia leaf, I aimed to add a subtle edge and a touch of rebellion to the fragrance. This choice also reflects an innovative angle since the magnolia leaf is rarely used in perfumery. However, with innovation comes the need for balance. Striking the right equilibrium between novelty and familiarity is essential. The core DNA of Aurner is rooted in recognisable elements, maintaining a character that is both green and spicy, all while supported by a strong woody base. This foundation allows us to create a striking contrast, resulting in a gentle yet complex composition.
What other ingredients are key to the uniqueness of this scent?
To break away from convention, we set out to capture what I call the ‘strange factor.’ I remember one evening in the South of France: After a long day of refining the formula, I relaxed with a chamomile face mask. In that moment, I realised that chamomile—a note long forgotten in modern perfumery but once celebrated in vintage compositions—could be our secret strength. Its expansive, almost ‘earth apple’ quality could be used to gently modify the vegetal note by adding just a dash of fruitiness. The goal was to enhance complexity without overwhelming the everyday wearability of the fragrance.
Did you incorporate any synthetic ingredients?
With Aesop, we have the luxury of using high-quality natural ingredients in abundance. A large part of the formula consists of essential oils, which provide a complexity that synthetics simply can’t match. When you mix synthetics, it’s like adding bricks on top of each other, whereas when you add naturals, it’s as if they are making love to each other, giving birth to a third entity, much like chemistry. For example, the magnolia leaf combined with chamomile brings a hint of fruitiness that subtly transforms the scent—balancing it without becoming overly sweet or tropical. I believe naturals have a way of bringing depth and a touch of mystery to a fragrance.
Did you use any special innovations or methods of extraction?
To capture the pure essence of the magnolia leaf, we began with hydro distillation to obtain the essential oil, followed by fractional distillation. In this process, we heat the oil in a specialised column, effectively ‘slicing’ it into different fractions. Then we carefully remove any fractions that don’t contribute to our desired character, refining the note to make it creamier and softer while eliminating excessive smokiness. The result is a vibrant, neutral note that adds depth without overpowering the blend.
Another innovative aspect is our use of patchouli crystals. By isolating and crystallising its most luxurious molecules, we add a new dimension to the fragrance. These patchouli crystals, once melted into the formula, reveal a subtle beauty that enhances longevity and introduces a distinctive earthiness without feeling medicinal. We also experimented with vetiver, applying a novel hydroxylation treatment to create a fresh, green, and lush vetiver note that pairs perfectly with the other elements in the composition.
You seem deeply passionate about the science behind it all. Do you consider yourself a sort of mad scientist?
Not at all—I come from an unorthodox background. I studied business and marketing, not chemistry. I see myself more as a mad explorer. I love discovering new facets and juxtaposing ingredients in a harmonious way rather than creating chaos. Each ingredient is like a chapter in a book, and knowing how they interact allows me to tell a story through fragrance—much like writing poetry. I think ingredients in perfumery are like words in poetry or literature. One should not only know the words; they need to know how to turn it into a song or poem. That's how you get the consumer excited!
In the three years that it took to create this scent, what were some of the challenges you faced?
There were several. First, I had to build a new team dynamic quickly, and thankfully Aesop hires people with the right mindset—curious, humble, and well-read. The second challenge was developing the right floral proposal. Once I chose the magnolia leaf, our aligned vision made progress steady. Still, there were moments when the formula felt stuck. In those times, I drew inspiration from literature, philosophy, and art. Quotes like “Strangeness is a necessary ingredient in beauty” by poet Charles Baudelaire helped me to find chamomile—my strange factor. And author André Gide’s quote, “A work of art is the exaggeration of an idea,” made me push the chamomile note even further. Finally, knowing when to stop was crucial. I began the meticulous process of removing every non-essential element from the formula until we achieved a fragrance that was both innovatively disruptive and elegantly simple. I often refer to this quote that hangs in my office; it's from The Little Prince’s Antoine de Saint-Exupéry: “Perfection is achieved, not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to take away.”
What do you hope wearers of Aurner will feel or experience?
I hope that when people first smell Aurner, they feel excitement and surprise. As they wear it throughout the day, I want them to feel optimistic and completely at ease. The fragrance is luminous and has a dynamic, blooming aura. Created in the aftermath of Covid-19, it’s meant to offer calmness and a sense of alignment—it’s a fragrance with wellness benefits!
This interview has been edited and condensed for clarity. All photos courtesy of Aesop.
Aurner Eau de Parfum, S$225 for 50ml, retails online and at all Aesop’s stores.