Since its opening earlier this year, COTE Korean Steakhouse Singapore has been winning hearts and stomachs with its chic New York dining concept, and sumptuous array of beef cuts, served Korean barbecue-style. And rightly so, since the Singapore offshoot comes from Michelin pedigree—its New York flagship earned its first star just a year after it opened in 2017.

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What imbibers really love about this hidden gem at COMO Orchard is the dark and sexy Millim Bar and the tipples that come with it—strong, flavourful and aromatic. For the creative cocktail menu and extensive wine selection, we have to thank beverage executive director Victoria James and her team. Under her guidance, COTE's beverage lineup has snagged four James Beard nominations for “Outstanding Wine Program” and earned her the Michelin Sommelier of the Year Award in 2022.

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Based in New York, James’ love affair with the hospitality world started when she was just a 13-year-old girl. By 21, she had already become the youngest certified sommelier in the US—and possibly the world—certified by the Court of Master Sommeliers. Her name pops up on all the big lists: Forbes “30 Under 30,” Food & Wine’s “Sommelier of the Year,” Zagat’s “30 Under 30,” Wine Enthusiast’s “40 Under 40,” and Wine & Spirits’ “Best New Sommeliers.”

She has also published two books, one of which is American bestseller Wine Girl: The Trials and Triumphs of America’s Youngest Sommelier. This compelling read reveals the sinister side of toxic restaurant culture, filled with abusive managers, sexual harassment, and discrimination.

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The 33-year-old mother of one isn't just about accolades and titles; she’s also wants to make the wine world a more inclusive place. In 2018, she co-founded Wine Empowered, a non-profit offering free wine classes to women and BIPOC in hospitality.

In this exclusive interview with ELLE Singapore, James shares what it takes to create an award-winning wine list—but also curating it for regular drinkers—and the best piece of wine wisdom she’s learned.

How do you see COTE fitting into the vibrant Singaporean dining scene, and how do you plan to adapt the experience for a local audience?

For the Singaporean market specifically, we wanted to embrace a key part of the culture as well–BYOB. We know so many locals love showcasing their cellar, so we offer a “one for one”: You buy a bottle off our list, you get complimentary corkage. And after 9pm, corkage is completely free altogether. No limits on bottles, just come and party with us. The Millim Bar also has elements of the local scene as well as our New York roots. Sondre Kasin, principal bartender, and Arjay our head bartender put together a great cocktail program, utilising fresh local ingredients as well as highlighting New York classics like Old Fashioneds and Martinis. For me, I feel COTE will be able to bring a little slice of New York to the Singaporean market. It is a classic New York Chophouse, with a great wine list and cocktails.

You received numerous awards for your beverage programmes. Can you walk us through the thought process behind curating an award-winning wine list?

The great thing about COTE is the blend of highs and lows—yes, you can get some of the most competitive pricing on blue chip bottlings, but you can also fall in love with wines from small growers. Our wine list focuses on farmers and producers who are organic, biodynamic and sustainable. Whenever possible, we also try to lift up marginalised groups by purchasing wine made by women and BIPOC (black, indigenous, and people of colour). Most importantly, we feel that wine should be delicious and speak to a sense of place. Whether you’re looking to spend $50 or $1,000, our sommeliers would love to help you find your new favourite bottle.

You’ve spoken openly about navigating patriarchy in the wine and hospitality industry. What challenges have you faced, and how have you overcome them?

For those who have read my book, Wine Girl, you know that our industry can be an old boy’s club. I’m super proud that I was able to share my story and have been humbled by the positive impact it has had on our industry and so many women. It’s been almost 15 years since I became the youngest sommelier in the country at 21, and it's been my mission in my career to make the wine world a more accessible place for women. At our restaurants, we really want to make wine approachable and fun. After all, isn’t that the best part of restaurants?

What single piece of wine wisdom has served you most throughout your career?

When I was a young sommelier, I was a cellar hand at one of the most historic New York City steakhouses, and I watched as our maitre’d, and owner used wine as a tool in hospitality. We had a wine cellar that was rumoured to be worth more than US$8 million (around S$10.8 million), and when they would serve wine to guests, I thought that there would be all this pageantry. But there wasn’t any fuss—it was just charming and simple. Our maitre’d one day explained to me: “Wine isn’t actually about wine. It is a part of the whole experience, and if you aren’t focusing on the whole experience, you’re missing the point.”

Wine Empowered offers free wine education for women. How do you think this programme can contribute to a more diverse and equitable F&B landscape?

Our mission is to inspire professional growth and empower women and minorities in the hospitality industry in an aim to diversify leadership roles in the industry. To advance our mission, we provide tuition-free wine education, mentoring services, and access to a wider network of sommeliers and hospitality professionals. We believe education not only qualifies an individual for higher levels of employment, but it also empowers one to pursue endless opportunities for advancement.

What wines you are drinking now and what you like about them?

From our Singapore wine list, here are some of my favourites:

2019 Robert Denogent Pouilly-Fuisse Vieilles Vignes
White Burgundy is truly my favourite. Coming from a compelling and historical farmer that makes some of the most authentic wines in the region, these bottles are really affordable but can rival wines three times their price.

2018 Pierre Guillemot 1er Cru Aux Serpentières Savigny Rouge
A favourite red Burgundy on our list, this small grower makes really lean and racy Pinot Noir that truly speaks to a sense of place. There is something so umami about it and it really is delicious with our steaks.

2009 Clos Rougeard Le Bourg Saumur-Champigny
If you want to go fancy, we have a crazy vertical offering multiple vintages from this iconic producer in the Loire Valley. This is Cabernet Franc for kings—perhaps the best pairing ever with steak.

COTE is open daily from 5pm to 2am. Visit COTE Korean Steakhouse Singapore at 30 Bideford Road, Level 3 COMO Orchard, Singapore 229922 (tel: 1800 304 7788). Book at table here.