Wandering around Rome’s cobbled streets is a multi-layered olfactory experience: The scent of freshly brewed espresso mingled with the toasty, herbaceous aroma of basil-topped pizzas fresh from the oven; the smoky scent of incense of ancient churches; and sweet jasmine that covers the stone walls of many buildings. Vibrant, heady, romantic—this is what Rome smells like. Indeed, scents have a way of evoking a sense of place, and Fendi’s new collection of luxury fragrances is intended to do just that.
The launch of the Fendi Fragrances marks the first step in the Roman Maison’s journey towards its centenary. Comprising seven distinct perfumes—inspired by a member (or honorary member) of the Fendi family—the collection delves into Fendi’s rich heritage and familial ethos.
Founded by husband and wife Edoardo Fendi and Adele Casagrande, the House of Fendi’s connection to the Italian capital runs deep. It funded the restoration of the Temple of Venus and Roma, where the brand staged its couture collection in July 2019, and paid tribute to Karl Lagerfeld, its late creative director. The 15-month undertaking to reinstate the temple to its former glory cost €2.5 million (S$3.6 million), and reiterated Fendi’s continuing love affair with Rome. As I stood at the very spot where models like Kaia Gerber, Mariacarla Boscono, and Vittoria Ceretti walked for the 2019 show, now returned to its former glory, it was evident that Fendi is committed to preserving the heritage, art and culture of its native city.
Fendi also financed the restoration of the Palazzo della Civiltà Italiana, now its headquarters, where I and the other journalists encountered the enchanting new fragrances created by perfumers Quentin Bisch, Fanny Bal, and Anne Flipo, who worked closely with artistic director Kim Jones, as well as Silvia Venturini Fendi and her daughter Delfina Delettrez Fendi. Housed in a bottle whose purity of form and arches etched on the glass echo the architecture of the Eternal City, each fragrance draws its wearers into Fendi’s world, where scent becomes a poetic language of heritage and creativity.
With a whiff of Perché No, the fragrance dedicated to Silvia Venturini Fendi, the warm and comforting notes of pink peppercorn and sandalwood transported me back to the idyllic I Casali del Pino, the 174-hectare estate of Ilaria Venturini Fendi, Silvia’s sister, which is located on the outskirts north of Rome. The family retreat’s scenic landscapes stayed with me as I strolled through the Roseto di Roma or the Rome Rose Garden, in search of the rose named after the sisters’ mother, Anna Fendi, the inspiration for Dolce Bacio. The experience encapsulated the spirit of the fragrance collection—a seamless integration of history, nature, family, and fashion.
Our fragrance journey culminated in an intimate dinner on the ground floor of the Palazzo della Civiltà Italiana, where scent continued to delight our senses. This time however, it was the flavours of the beautifully presented food—from the cold vegetable soup dish redolent with the umami of dashi broth and fermented basil, to the sea bass infused with the earthy bouquet of beet, smoked thyme and wasabi. Like its fragrances, each dish was carefully crafted to enhance and preserve the essence of its ingredients.
Through the course of this sensory exploration, I discovered how scent can be a powerful medium, capable of evoking memories of places, people, and even food that we’ve savoured. To learn more about the Fendi Fragrances, I had the privilege of conversing with two of the noses, Quentin Bisch (responsible for Casa Grande, Prima Terra, Perché No, and Sempre Mio,), and Fanny Bal (Ciao Amore), whose insights were invaluable in understanding the process of creating their olfactory compositions.
Each fragrance represents something deeply personal for each Fendi family member. How did you explore this with the individuals?
Quentin Bisch (QB): When creating perfumes that reflect personalities, memories, or stories, it is essential to listen carefully and then interpret these elements in your own way. You must stay true to yourself while also being true to their experiences. It is a meeting point where their stories intersect with your interpretation. A successful perfume emerges from the synergy between your artistic vision and their desired expression.
Fanny Bal (FB): For me, creating the perfume for Leonetta Luciano Fendi, Silvia’s youngest daughter, was quite straightforward because she embodies simplicity and natural beauty. I envisioned her as the perfect person to wear Ciao Amore. Once the overall concept was established, I realised that the perfumes revolved around the theme of love, and would be infused with a Mediterranean influence. This inspiration guided me in crafting the fragrance.
How did that translate into making of the fragrances?
QB: Prima Terra, for instance, is inspired by Kim Jones’s memories of Africa. We discussed the hot, dry African landscapes and the idea of colognes, which typically evoke citrus and freshness. It was fascinating to reinterpret the classic cologne structure, blending citrus notes with something more evocative of Africa. We imagined the scent of the first drops of rain on warm, dry soil—this contrast of sensations inspired the creation of Prima Terra.
FB: My focus was to create an impactful perfume using the highest quality ingredients. It was crucial to ensure that each fragrance had a clear, compelling story and message. Rather than producing a multifaceted perfume, I aimed for something straightforward yet precious, emphasising purity and quality in every aspect.
Tell us about the ingredients used in the fragrance, and why you chose them.
QB: I had a strong vision for Sempre Mio, Delfina’s fragrance, centred around the concept of orange blossom intertwined with the essence of the earth, particularly the rich red soil of Marrakech. I focused on woody notes such as vetiver, which symbolically represent roots—her own roots, to be exact. Then I blended vetiver with orange blossom, infusing it with cedar wood sourced directly from Atlas, the landscapes that held personal significance for her.
FB: Ciao Amore is inspired by the warm scent of skin after swimming in the Mediterranean. I infused it with orange flower blossoms, symbolic of the region’s allure. I used a lot of Ambroxan, a synthetic resin, for that second-skin effect. It also features high-quality ingredients like Mandarin oil, and captures a Mediterranean afternoon in a bottle.
What do you enjoy most about the art of scent-making?
QB: There’s the initial phase when I receive a brief. I take one to two weeks to immerse myself in the concept, jotting down notes and exploring various formulations. This early stage excites me because it’s a time of limitless possibilities. The second phase, which is now, I consider my favourite moment. It involves discussing the fragrance with colleagues and journalists. It’s here that we articulate the essence of the perfume, bringing it to life with words and emotions, envisioning how it will be worn.
FB: When I see it on the market in bottles. But the best thing is when you smell someone in the street wearing it. It’s like magic.
A Closer Look At Each Fragrance
Sempre Mio
Inspired by Delfina Delettrez Fendi’s deep connection to Marrakech, the Moroccan city where she spent part of her adolescence, Sempre Mio evokes the memories of her youth with Moroccan orange blossom, combined with Calabrian bergamot and cedarwood.
Prima Terra
This scent captures Kim Jones’s childhood in Southern and Eastern Africa, with fresh tangerine, rosemary from Tunisia and Morocco, and warm oak moss. At once fresh, earthy and warm, it’s a tribute to the strong and savage beauty of the African savannah.
Perché No
The fragrance inspired by Silvia Venturini Fendi, the artistic director of Fendi accessories and menswear, embodies the comfort of family memories at I Casali del Pino, the family’s agricultural estate. It blends pink pepper from Brazil, lightly smoked with incense with sandalwood’s balsamic nuances.
La Baguette
Think lazy Sundays with a sweet snack of bread, butter and sugar, enhanced by Madagascan vanilla for added indulgence. A powdery floral fragrance that celebrates childhood, it is inspired by Delfina Delettrez Fendi’s young twin sons, and named after the brand’s most iconic bag designed by Silvia Venturini Fendi.
Dolce Bacio
Inspired by Anna Fendi and Roseto di Roma, Rome’s famous rose garden, it blends green, floral notes with woody undertones. Featuring sweet apricots and smoky Indonesian patchouli, it blooms with powerful Damascene rose from Turkey.
Ciao Amore
Inspired by Sylvia’s younger daughter, Leonetta Luciano Fendi, and the island of Ponza which lies between Rome and Naples, this floral-gourmand fragrance blends fig and Tunisian orange blossom with tonka bean absolute for a fresh, woody allure.
Casa Grande
This dynastic scent bridges the Tiber and Bosphorus, and celebrates the union of its
founders, Rome-born Adele Casagrande, and Edoardo Fendi, originally from Istanbul. Somali myrrh and amber evoke Edoardo’s birthplace, the leather note reflects the brand’s beginnings as a leather workshop, and hints of cherry round off the fragrance.
Fendi Fragrances each retail at $480 for 100ml at Fendi boutiques and fendi.com.