Between INCI lists and TikTok-isms (think 'beef tallow' and 'skin-streaming'), deciphering the ever-growing skincare lexicon is without doubt the largest piece of the puzzle when it comes to a successful skin regime. But among the trends that might cause more grief than glow, there's one skincare ingredient currently on the lips of every dermatologist that's truly worth the hype. Enter ectoin.
Lesser-known in the world of skincare, ectoin has had a surge of popularity of late and is currently cropping in every new skincare bottle and creeping into the conversation on social media. "Ectoin is trending due to conversations around repairing the skin barrier, after years of overusing actives to exfoliate, peel and rejuvenate the skin, particularly during the pandemic," shares La Roche-Posay dermatologist, Dr Justine Hextall.
But that's not where the benefits end: Unlike some of the other ingredients sitting pretty in your skincare line-up (say, hyaluronic acid) ectoin is a multitasking wonder, helping to hydrate, strengthen the skin barrier, improve skin tone and texture, aid inflammation, and more.
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What is ectoin?
"Ectoin is similar to your skin’s natural defence against stress," shares Mark Curry, co-founder of The INKEY List. "It’s a naturally derived molecule derived from extremophiles (microorganisms that thrive in extreme environments, like salt lakes or deserts)."
When it comes to skincare, ectoin helps to protect your skin from environmental stressors, such as pollution and UV radiation. It also aids dehydration, reduces inflammation and stabilises skin cells under stress. "Think of it as a shield that strengthens your skin barrier whilst simultaneously sending invites out to hydrators to go deeper into the skin," he shares.
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What does ectoin do for the skin?
"Ectoin is considered 'nature’s stress protection molecule'," agrees skin expert and aesthetic doctor, Dr Christine Hall. "Its ability to stabilise and protect the skin barrier while delivering long-lasting hydration makes it an especially valuable ingredient for modern skincare," she shares.
Unlike some of the actives in your current skincare routine, though, there's no risk of sensitivity. "It has proven benefits for sensitive skin and conditions such as eczema and rosacea, helping improve tolerability to potent actives like retinol without negative side effects," she adds.
It's also a winner if you're suffering from inflamed skin. "Ectoin prevents inflammation by stabilising the skin barrier, protecting against heat and dryness and significantly reducing trans-epidermal water loss," adds Dr Hall.
Ceramidin Infused Ectoin Cream, $90, DR. JART+.
Ectoin Repair Serum, $180, SUSANNE KAUFFMAN.
Squalane + Ectoin Overnight Rescue Ultra-Rich Cream, $112, BIOSSANCE.
Ectoin Hydro-Barrier Serum, $28, THE INKEY LIST.
Are there any drawbacks to consider?
Welcome news to anyone who has played victim to a cruel active or harsh skincare ingredient in the past: Ectoin has no negative side effects. "It’s gentle on the skin, and you shouldn’t expect redness, peeling, or discomfort when using products formulated with ectoin," shares Dr Hall.
Dr Hextall agrees. "Ectoin even works well when added to active ingredients in order to minimise the side effects and skin barrier damage that can be caused by acids and higher strength retinoids, without compromising on their efficacy," she shares, adding that it can also be used alongside other 'skin protective' ingredients such as ceramides.
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As an easy-to-tolerate ingredient that's simple to slot into your routine, there are no hard and fast rules when it comes to ectoin (phew). You can use this ingredient year-round, though it's especially beneficial in winter when the skin barrier can be compromised, and in the form of a serum, moisturiser or night cream. As there's no risk of irritation in conjunction with other ingredients, you won't need to worry about chopping and changing your current line-up, either.
All in all, if dryness, inflammation and lack of all-round radiance are your main skincare bugbears, it might be time to turn your attention to this hardworking skincare hero.
This article was first seen on ELLE UK.