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Atsuko Ninagawa’s Design Lovers’ Guide To Tokyo

The co-founder of Art Week Tokyo shares her favourite galleries, shops, restaurants and where to stay in her native city.
Published: July 5, 2025
Atsuko Ninagawa’s design lovers’ guide to Tokyo
Photo: Courtesy of Atsuko Ninagawa

Atsuko Ninagawa is the co-founder of Art Week Tokyo, an annual showcase launched during the pandemic to augment Japan’s presence across the international art scene. The initiative, which debuted in 2021 and held its first full edition in 2022, connects Tokyo’s leading contemporary art spaces through coordinated programming, with venues throughout the vast city made easier to visit thanks to a free hop-on, hop-off bus service.

With an ongoing mission to make Japanese art more accessible to global buyers and enthusiasts, Art Week Tokyo has successfully elevated the visibility of the city’s diverse art scene while engaging new local audiences and establishing itself as the capital’s premiere contemporary art experience.

Ninagawa is also the founder of Take Ninagawa gallery. After studying art history and non-profit art management, she deferred from her original career path with the ambition to help develop Japan’s modern art market and support emerging practices. Having established the gallery in Tokyo’s Higashi-Azabu district in 2008, it now represents a cross-generational roster of Japanese and international artists, with an emphasis on conceptual and performance work.

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Where To Stay

Photo: Courtesy of The Okura Tokyo

The Okura Tokyo

Architect Yoshiro Taniguchi’s 1962 design for the original Okura Tokyo was an incredible example of post-war Japanese modernism. His use of wood and traditional detailing infused the space with an immersive, welcoming warmth and humanity. His son Yoshio (who passed away in December 2024), was a famed architect in his own right and did a masterful job of carrying over those key elements when the hotel was updated in 2019.

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Photo: Courtesy of The Okura Tokyo

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The hotel is also part of Leading Hotels of the World, a collection of independent luxury hotels, and features in the group’s first book, Design: The Leading Hotels of the World. It’s a truly spectacular space, and there are few hotels in the city that combine the same level of hand-crafted elegance and high-tech finishing on such a grand scale.

For more information, visit their website.

Food & Drink

Narisawa

With two Michelin stars, this is one of the leading nouvelle cuisine restaurants in Tokyo. Chef Narisawa combines the principles of both Japanese and international cooking, creating incredible new flavours. For more casual fare, try Toyoken, another venture of Narisawa’s, which offers a high-end version of yoshoku, or Japanese-style Western cuisine.

For more information, visit their website.

Ginza Rokkakutei

Serving a cuisine that originated in my native Osaka, this restaurant is dedicated to kushiyaki, or skewers of seasonal ingredients fried in a light batter. It complements these morsels with a strong selection of wines.

For more information, visit their website.

Wall Aoyama

This art-themed bar is hidden away in the emerging aoyama complex, a multi-functional cultural venue, which also serves as a base for Art Week Tokyo’s VIP programs. The highlight of the menu is its signature and seasonal cocktails. Art on display in the space includes works by Nobuyoshi Araki, Tracy Emin and Lawrence Weiner.

For more information, visit their website.

Lavender Opener Chair/Tohmei

This artist-run space in Arakawa in the north of Tokyo turns into a counter diner at night, with artist Tatsuhiko Togashi serving up seasonal small dishes and local beers and spirits from an open kitchen.

For more information, visit their website.

Art & Culture

The National Museum of Modern Art Tokyo

The country’s flagship museum for modern and contemporary art spans three floors, while the collection galleries provide visitors with a fantastic overview of Japan’s recent art history.

For more information, visit their website.

Mori Art Museum

At the top of the 53-story Roppongi Hills Mori Tower, this private museum hosts exhibitions by both Japanese and international art stars. It also anchors a lively art scene in the district, which includes several gallery complexes and the National Art Centre, Tokyo.

For more information, visit their website.

The Museum of Contemporary Art Tokyo

Combining three levels of rotating galleries and a collection wing, this museum focuses on emerging art and is located in the Kiyosumi-Shirakawa district, where bohemian businesses, including artisan cheese and coffee shops bring new life to the neighbourhood, which still has a feel of post-war Tokyo. 

For more information, visit their website.

Edo-Tokyo Open-Air Architectural Museum

For something off the beaten track, this museum in Koganei Park makes for a fun outing. The grounds are dotted with relocated historic buildings that provide an experiential overview of the history of architecture in Japan, from traditional homes to modern designs.

For more information, visit their website.

Decoration & Design

Isetan Shinjuku

This is one of Tokyo’s grand department stores, instantly recognisable by the art deco façade of its main entrance. Including an underground food hall and fashion and design departments spread across multiple buildings, you could easily spend many hours there.

Commes des Garcons Aoyama

With several Issey Miyake boutiques across the street and many other brands in the area, this is a must-stop for anyone visiting Tokyo and my go-to place for fashion.

Nakano Broadway

An aging, post-war-era shopping centre, Nakano Broadway has been taken over by stalls selling vintage figurines, toys and other collectibles, making it an incredible visual and cultural experience. Japanese artist, Takashi Murakami has his own retro-themed café Coffee Zingaro, there.

Morioka Shoten

Located in the shopping district of Ginza district, this high-concept bookstore demonstrates how Japan’s rich book culture continues to evolve in exciting ways. The concept? The store is ‘a single room with a single book’, or more precisely, it sells multiple copies of one title that changes weekly, with a small book-inspired art exhibition on the walls.

This article was first seen on ELLE Decor UK.

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