From pioneer Vivienne Westwood to newer champions like Simone Rocha and Cecilie Bahnsen, New Romantic fashion has continually been reinterpreted since its initial boom in 1980s London. Now, this subculture is experiencing another revival with designers like Yuhan Wang. “I believe when we allow softness to fully unfold—whether through lace, silhouette, gesture, or story—it becomes incredibly powerful,” says Yuhan of her innately feminine creations.
Related article: Meet Jane Wade—The Radical Designer Shaking Up The World Of Office Wear
Growing up, Yuhan was a cinephile who was not just captivated by the narratives unfolding on the big screen, but also the costume details, such as the silhouette and fabric movement. “Looking back, it wasn’t fashion in the commercial sense that interested me—it was the way garments could become a kind of poetry, a visual psychology,” she muses.
Related article: No One Does Summer Like Tommy Hilfiger
Shortly after graduating with a BA and MA in womenswear design at Central Saint Martins, the 34-year-old cut her teeth at Italian label Marni. But it wasn’t until talent incubator Fashion East invited Yuhan to show at London Fashion Week that she considered starting her label. By her third fashion week showcase, buyers were knocking on her door to purchase her collections. In 2018, she officially launched her eponymous label, now available at luxury retailers including Dover Street Market, Browns and Farfetch. Her pieces have also found their way into the wardrobes of A-listers like Selena Gomez, and Blackpink’s Lisa and Jennie.
Her beautifully draped silhouettes experiment with proportions and layering, and Yuhan’s poetic creations have always masterfully toed the line between nostalgia and modernity, theatricality and practicality. Having grown up in China and worked in London and New York, her multicultural background is also the reason why there’s a distinct east-meets-west aesthetic in her designs. “I think what excites me the most is not choosing one influence over another, but seeing how contradictions can sit together—how fragility can live beside strength, how something antique can feel modern again,” she explains.
Her spring/summer 2025 collection entitled The Rose Fist is inspired by the duality of strength and softness. “I was drawn to women boxers—pioneering figures like Alaia Ali, Jane Couch, Barbara Butterick and Bridget Riley—who didn’t just challenge male-dominated arenas, but also redefined what empowerment could look like,” says Yuhan. Exploring the dichotomy between masculinity and
femininity, athletic silhouettes like leotards and biker shorts are paired with ribbon-trimmed corsets and swinging skirts that mimic ballet tutus. Wang also mixes performance fabrics like activewear jersey and technical knits with deadstock lace and satin for a delicate yet assertive feel.
IF YOU LOVE YUHAN WANG, CHECK OUT THESE OTHER LABELS
GYOUREE KIM
Tie-up corsets, flounce skirts and frilly tops crafted from lace and tulle are a mainstay in the oeuvre of this Seoul- and London-based designer. Further amplifying this Victorian romanticism are the brand’s bridal veils and farthingale hats.
DREAMING ELI
Infused with a gothic edge, Dreaming Eli’s creations explore the rebellious nature of femininity. Think corset dresses juxtaposed with edgy bondage elements and finished with contrast stitching.
SUSAN FANG
With a focus on using innovative textiles and intricate embroidery, this London-based label is best known for its colourful dresses and girly frocks adorned with botanical motifs as well as its whimsical range of beaded accessories.