
In just three decades, Issey Miyake's seminal Pleats Please line catapulted this unassuming design to the sartorial mainstream. Through the brand's innovative heat-pressed pleating technique that formed crease-free and machine-washable pleats, its versatility and sculptural simplicity won over the hearts of the fashion-forward. Its effortless elegance cementing it as a prime example of the quiet luxury aesthetic.
In spite of being one of the trickiest design elements to manipulate and perfect, Pleats Please has gone on to influence numerous trailblazing designers leading to experimental styles ranging from understated minimalism to the playfully vibrant. Few of whom have managed to capture the unadulterated sense of joy Issey Miyake sought to convey through his pieces. Thai designer Peach Wichcha Soponpattana, founder of Gongdid Design, is one of them. With a vision to create "joyful, everyday clothing," the label's feminine pleats have steadily garnered a devoted customer base in the region and beyond.
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SERENDIPITOUS BEGINNINGS

"My name is Peach, and the similarity in sound to the word 'pleat' has always intrigued me," she shares. Since childhood, the designer's first name was frequently mispronounced, with many of her relatives calling her "Pleat" instead of "Peach". This phenomenon followed the designer well into her university days. "I created t-shirts with my university’s name woven onto them and sold them at the freshman welcome event," she recalls. Disinterested in pursuing a career related to her finance degree and spurred by the success of the event's t-shirt sales, Peach took a leap of faith to start her own label.
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CREATIVE PROCESS

Founded in 2015, Gongdid Design—which translates to "weaving machine" in Thai—embraces the complexities that come with using different fabrics to create pleats and took each setback as a learning experience.
"Although I didn’t study fashion formally, my curiosity and persistence led me to constantly experiment and push boundaries," says Peach. Despite the lack of a fashion design background, she was driven to create high-quality pleats that were sophisticated, breathable and comfortable. For instance, the label's wavy pleated designs were skillfully constructed to allow the fabric to stretch significantly while maintaining the handcrafted wave pattern. "I always strive to find a way to make it happen," she says recalling the times when her production team told that certain techniques were impossible to achieve.
In this ELLE Singapore interview, Peach shares how her love for pleats started and the importance of constant innovation.

Tell us about the inception of Gongdid Design.
It all started right after I graduated. I quickly realised that the knowledge I gained during my four years as a finance major was not something I was passionate about or wanted to pursue as a career. So, I began exploring activities that genuinely interested me and decided to give them a try. Despite the pressure and fear associated with starting a business, I wanted to experience the process of running one and test my potential to see if I could succeed.
Of all the different fabric designs out there, why pleats?
Since childhood, I've been captivated by conversations between mothers discussing vintage pleated skirts and pleated clothing in general. As I grew older, my interest in pleats only deepened. Whenever I wore pleats, I received compliments like "you look beautiful today" and "you look great today." These positive remarks motivated me to create pleated garments for others, so that they too can feel confident and beautiful.

Using innovative techniques seems to be the cornerstone of the brand. How do you ensure style and comfort are always prioritised?
You could call me a 'pleat nerd'. The more I delve into the pleating process, the more driven I am to innovate and transform every fabric into pleats. Every challenge is an opportunity to create something unique. Despite the innovative techniques and complexities involved, I always prioritise comfort. Customers feedback consistently highlight the comfort of our pleated garments, which motivates me to ensure every piece is truly free-size and stylish.
Producing good-quality pleats is a common challenge amongst brands and designers. Can you share some of the obstacles you faced working with pleated fabrics and how you overcame them?
There are many limitations when it comes to creating durable, high-quality pleats. For example, you might think you know how a particular fabric feels when worn, but when transformed into pleats, the fabric sits and feels differently. Each collection requires significant focus on selecting the right materials and perfecting the pleating process. I constantly learn from each collection and aim to ultimately minimise waste during the experimental phase.
What do you think are some wardrobe staples every woman needs?
I believe every woman needs an outfit that can increase her confidence. After all, we feel like our best selves when we put on an outfit that makes us feel self-assured.
What’s next for Gongdid Design?
My goal is to expand internationally. As I grow, the lessons I've learnt along the way have fuelled my passion to express myself through the label. We're excited to introduce more versatile and sustainable fabrics in future collections. Through these efforts, we aspire to make Gongdid a global name synonymous with elegance and innovation.
Other Labels to Explore
With its fluid lines, feather-like weightlessness and versatility, it's easy to see why pleated garments have become a sartorial favourite. Here, we share our top picks for this wardrobe staple.
GINLEE
Functional and timeless, Singapore-based label GINLEE creates wardrobe staples for the modern woman. Beyond its classic workwear pieces, the brand also has a pleated line that include full-length dresses and bags. Our top picks? The Layla Dress, ideal for petite silhouettes, and the Pod Top.
CULT GAIA
Most would know Los Angeles-based label Cult Gaia from its unmistakable Ark Bag, the summer accessory that made headlines in 2013. But its pleated offerings have also been making waves in recent years. From the cropped Genesis Top spotted above to the more formal Ariella Dress, these contemporary pieces are this season's must-haves.
ULLA JOHNSON
In addition to its vibrant prints that were heavily inspired by the founder's exotic escapades, New-York based label Ulla Johnson has plenty of pleated bohemian chic creations to choose from. Its signature pieces include the Hestia Skirt, which feature dramatic silk-blend pleats and the Ella Skirt, a flowy midi-length skirt with dimensional pleating.
LOEFFLER RANDALL
Even with an extensive ready-to-wear line that includes bridal collections, New York-based label Loeffler Randall's pleated heels are some of its most emblematic creations. Some of its bestsellers include the Camellia Knot Heel that come in an array of colourways and its Daphne Bow Slides in striking gold lamé.