Gucci’s Cruise Collection Teases The Arrival Of Demna

The show was staged at the 15th-century Palazzo Settimanni in Florence.

Published: May 20, 2025

Gucci’s Cruise Collection Teases The Arrival Of Demna — Zhang Linghe and Davika Hoorne front row at the Gucci Cruise 2026 show. Photo: Courtesy of Gucci

Last week in Florence, within the storied walls of the 15th-century Palazzo Settimanni—home to the Gucci archive—the house’s cruise 2026 collection unfolded in a luxurious display of expert colour pairings, retro tailoring, and extravagant accessories. The styling was impeccable, delivering look after look destined for the red carpet. Though officially credited to the in-house studio team behind the fall/winter 2025 season, the collection bore traces of Demna’s aesthetic. From neon pink satin bags to boldly structured shoulders and fuzzy coats worn as minidresses, his influence was both nuanced and undeniable—subtle enough to pass under the radar, yet instantly recognisable to the trained eye.

Overall, the collection was wearable and fun, featuring playful yet luxurious pieces like rhinestone stockings adorned with Gucci’s classic interlocking Gs—a nod to last season’s logo catsuit. A candy-striped bag paired with a matching coat and oversized sunglasses added a dose of drama. Handbags remained a focal point throughout, with models casually clutching chain-strapped styles from the side, adding an air of effortless cool. Making its debut on the runway—and available to shop now—was the Giglio bag: An oversized tote cleverly styled as a fold-over clutch.

Jewellery lovers were treated to a landmark debut: The first-ever Monili high jewelry collection co-created by Pomellato and Gucci, unveiled on the runway alongside the looks. These one-of-a-kind pieces combined Gucci’s leather craftsmanship with the jeweller’s signature Iconica link, culminating in a design entirely encrusted in diamonds and centred around a nearly 20-carat green tourmaline. As the show came to a close, models made their way out to the Piazza, where trattoria diners looked on over their aperitivi, momentarily blurring the line between runway and real life. Looking back, the jewelry felt like the perfect finishing touch to the collection’s delicate silk chiffons, intricate lace, and sequin eveningwear.

While hinting at what may lie ahead in the fall, this collection served as a thoughtful homage to Gucci’s rich design legacy. Spanning decades of house codes—from the provocative glamour of Tom Ford to the eclectic maximalism of Alessandro Michele—it showcased the brand’s rare ability to draw from a lineage of visionary creative directors while charting a new course forward. As the echoes of the past mingled with hints of the future, one question lingered in the air: What comes next?

This article was first seen on ELLE US.