If you trawl through my pre-2020 camera roll, you’ll notice that every photo (selfie or portrait) features a strategic right-leaning head tilt and a tight, pursed-lipped expression. Even my graduation photo is modelled strategically to the side. It wouldn’t be too bold to assume I was just an incredibly miserable teenager; look close enough, you can nearly make out the dirty secret buried behind my pout: a crooked, ‘imperfect’ smile.
The insecurity around my smile was born circa first year of university. For context, one of my lateral incisors was tucked behind a neighbouring tooth, and when I took the spotlight during broadcast journalism sessions, a small shadow was cast over my grin. From a distance, this innocent shading created the illusion of a gap, and as a result, I would do anything to conceal it. A strategic head placement in photos, brightening the tooth tactfully via Facetune, keeping my mouth shut altogether. My worst nightmare was being tagged in a joyful snap showcasing that dreaded gap.
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In retrospect, the imperfection was minuscule, but a single Invisalign consultation was enough to convince me that those pearly whites were the stuff of horrors. "It’s a very complex case due to your open bite," the dentist said. It was an alarming statement to my untrained ear, followed by an even more alarming treatment quote. Naturally, I left the appointment in floods of tears, swiftly departing on a two-year teeth straightening journey afterwards.
Today, my smile is almost perfect (a little flat on one side due to years of teeth grinding, but you have to draw a line somewhere). It’s not exceptionally flawless in the way paper-white Hollywood veneers are, but with my imperfect gnashers now firmly in the rearview, teeth are a non-issue in my daily thought process. Not to mention, they’re the most complimented feature from strangers on my Hinge algorithm.
Until recently, I’d made peace with my dental situation; however, rising conversations around natural teeth, spearheaded by Aimee Lou Wood and Charlotte Le Bon’s appearance on The White Lotus, have introduced a new uncertainty around my decision to straighten my secret crooked grin. Has the perfect smile finally lost its shine? Dentists seem to think so.
"Nowadays, people don’t want to leave the dentist looking like they’ve been fitted with a pair of big, white, glistening veneers," says cosmetic dentist and president of The British Academy of Cosmetic Dentistry, Dr Sam Jethwa. "They want people to notice that their smile looks fantastic, but to be left wondering, 'have they, haven’t they?' had dental work done."
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Veneers have garnered some major criticism in recent months, primarily coming under fire for tarnishing the realism of period cinema. From Bridgerton to Persuasion, perfected teeth are as much a contributor to the so-called ‘iPhone face’ (when an actor looks modern enough to be familiar with present-day technology) as cosmetic surgery and filler. As the dental tweakment was only invented in 1928, as an accessory designed for cinema, gaining widespread popularity as a treatment in the late 20th century, a modern celebrity smile can instantly detract from the believability of a character based in prior history. Not to mention, these copy-and-paste shapes can also detract from an actor’s individual appearance and uniqueness.
"There was once a time when on the screen, everyone's teeth looked the same. Now, celebrities are realising that a one-size-fits-all smile that was popular in the ‘80s and ‘90s is no longer a desirable look and is not the key to success, fame or popularity," Jethwa says. "The current trend is subtle smile elevation, and with this, the smile remains completely unique to that patient. The majority look to keep their natural features, perhaps there is some slight overlapping or a gap in the front teeth, which they have opted to keep."
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With so many fatigued by flawless Hollywood smirks, it’s no surprise that Wood and Le Bon’s unique smiles have been received like a breath of fresh air. Even Wood, who plays woo-woo optimist Chelsea on The White Lotus, has been vocal about how positive public opinion has empowered her.
"I can’t believe the impact my teeth are having," the 31-year-old actor told Jonathan Ross. "The Americans can’t believe it. They’re being lovely. There are videos of orthodontists analysing my teeth. They dissect my teeth and say what’s wrong with them, but in the end go: "But I don’t think she should change a thing!" It’s a real full-circle moment after being bullied. Now people are clapping."
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At the time of my Invisalign consultation, I never considered my teeth’s uniqueness or that I would ever question my decision to alter them. As with many physical beauty standards, I was clouded by the sea of gleaming, white smiles, and anything that veered too far from them felt glaringly negative in comparison. It’s only in retrospect that I can appreciate that this so-called glare has its own allure, giving the fact individuality and character. In reality, the ‘imperfect’ smile is merely just a different smile.
Wood’s choice to opt out of the cookie-cutter smile isn’t groundbreaking, however, it brings a new light to how embedded beauty standards are on-screen. The actor’s decision to retain her own unique row means that it has become a distinctive, positive signature feature. While I’ll always be grateful for the confidence that Invisalign gave me, I can’t help but ponder if an element of my individuality was lost along the way, drowned out by my new conventional smile, which blends into the norm as opposed to standing out.
"Being insecure with your smile can be really limiting, and for some patients, cosmetic dentistry can be life changing," Jethwa says. "Cosmetic dentistry can be just as important for functional reasons as it is aesthetic, and the most beautiful smiles are those worn with confidence, because of how uniform or white they are."
This article was first seen on ELLE UK.